2013 4.0 - Cranks, doesnt start. Sudden fuel pump failure?

Yesterday I started up the truck like normal, no issues, tried to leave but my driveway was still icy and couldnt make it up the hill. A little sliding around, but never hit anything. I stopped, turned off the engine to get my shovel and try to break up/remove ice. Went to start again and it cranks but will not start.

So far I have done the following:

• Checked all fuses and relays. No blown fuses. I swapped the EFI relay with a relay of the same type, as well as the circuit open and fuel pump relays. No changes.
  
  
• Checked to see if immobilization light was on. Also used my spare key. Light turns off. No change.
  
  
• Even though the gauge reads half a tank, I put a gallon+ of fresh gas in it. No change.
  
  
• Disconnected the fuel lines near the engine to see if fuel was pumping (see picture here, both lines with yellow tabs https://imgur.com/LMu65B5). I did not get any fuel when cranking.
  • Seems to suggest the fuel pump is not working.
    • Would it be a bad pump or is it not getting a signal to start pumping? How can I check before going through with a replacement taking more time and $?
    • I have not had any signs of a pump issue. It has been starting normal. No cutting off, no surging. So if its the pump, its a sudden failure.
• Had someone put the car in "on" position while I listened at the gas cap - I could not hear anything so sounds like it is not turning on/priming. See above question in red.
  
  
• It may or may not be related but I noticed that when the ignition is in the "on" position, this is a continuous humming sound from the engine.
  • VIDEO OF SOUND: https://imgur.com/3BM1EVX
• Also when I turn the engine off, it makes a 'vacuuming cleaner sound'. I have no clue if either of these sounds are normal. I feel like the 'vacuum' sound is but cant be sure.
  • VIDEO OF SOUND - Cranks, wont start, vacuum. https://imgur.com/FcOKxxw

I have been reading threads all day with similar issues, and all kinds of things to try but I have found no one with resolutions other than 1) immobilizer, needed new key 2) out of gas.


Is there any further diagnosis I can do on the pump before having this thing towed? I really don't have the time to DIY that big of a fix like I did when I was younger.

Appreciate any advise!

 

Maybe pull the Fuel Pump relay and check Pins 2 & 3 for power?

 

I swapped the Fuel Pump Relay with the STOP LP PCTRL relay (same type of relay). So if the relay was the problem that should fix it, unless both are bad somehow...

If the relay itself isnt getting power then that would be a different issue, right?

I am not good with electrical diagnoses but I will pull it and try to figure it out.

 

Correct, that would be a different problem.
You need power (and ground) to the relay for it to work.
In this case, swapping the relay wouldn’t achieve anything.

 

Ok, I have never really learned to properly use a multimeter, but this is what I did.

Put it on DC volts. Black lead put into COM and Red in the continuity/V/Ohms/Hz terminal.

I grounded against a bolt in the engine bay and also with the negative battery terminal.
I placed the red in the terminals for the relay.. all of them. For the fuel pump relay the Voltage number just danced randomly, no different than if I didnt have the leads touching anything (as I type this, the multimeter is on, not touching anything and it reads negative 112 and moving constantly.

To test my procedure I pulled the horn relay and tested all terminals. In #1 and #3 it read 11.88V.

So, based on my very inexperienced electrical diagnostic ability, Id say my method was correct and that the fuel pump relay is not getting power.

So, if its not getting power. Why?

 

Was the key ON?

 

Yes, key was in the ON position, headlights and other accessories were all on. I did not crank it.

 

Ok, next pull the C/OPN relay.
Check pins 1 & 5
Use the fuse box diagram above for the PIN numbers.

The Fuel pump relay gets power from the C/OPN relay.

 

I see you in here @Dm93
If I’m taking the wrong approach let me know

 

I read 12V in #2 and #5, but not #1.

I had previously also swapped the C/OPN relay.

 

Can you buy or borrow a scan tool? There may well be stored codes to help you out (but if the pump is actually dead, possibly not).

 

A friend let me borrow a bluetooth scan tool (FIXD). It did not pull up any codes.

 

You need 12v at #1.
Are you sure you are correct on the numbers?
If so, check the 15A IGN fuse

I’m not sure why you are showing 12v on pin 2?

 

Yes, definitely #2 and #5. Took pictures for reference.

When I swapped my relays I only swapped blue for blue, brown for brown. I assumed they were all the same. If all the blues are not the same, could I have mixed up the puzzle?

 

I would jump power to the Black/Red wire at the fuel pump resistor and see if the pump runs as a first test, if the pump doesn't run then you have a bad pump or wiring problem.

 

This will be Interesting.
OP says he gets no power to Fuel Pump Relay?
(And I thought the resistor was bypassed on STARTING, then switches to low(resistor) shortly after starting?)

 

See here for Fuel Pump resistor location
It is just below the battery.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/07-tacoma-fuel-and-vacuum-line-diagram.693109/#post-24511272

 

Where is the fuel pump resistor?

This might be getting a little beyond my knowledge base but Im good at following directions, lol.
Essentially I can just take a wire from the positive battery to the wire noted at the resistor? I have plenty of 14ga house wiring I could use assuming that would work.

EDIT: thanks TnShooter, previous post showed me location of resistor.

 

See my post above

 

Fuel pump relay is powered from the COPN relay which is only turned on during cranking and once the engine is running.
The resistor is bypassed at startup but if you jump power to the Black/Red wire your bypassing all of that and running the fuel pump directly.