2010 replacing calipers questions

Sharing some advice for those that buy remand calipers from AutoZone...The one I bought had a different bleeder banjo bolt. It was a 7mm very thin bleeder. I didn't have a 7mm flared wrench so I took that one off with a ratchet and took the 10mm banjo bleeder off the tacoma caliper. This will make bleeding the brakes so much easier. It's the same thread specs.

 

Just finished a front brake job on my 2010 Tacoma 4X4. Obtained OEM rotors, pads, pins & springs from an eBay seller, bought new calipers at Advance Auto for $86 ea. My calipers were about as rusted as in the OP's pics; both inside lower pistons were seized. I had the most trouble with one of the 12mm brake line support screws, so rusted I had to bang on a 7/16" box to get it off. Flushed the brake lines before disassembly with 1.5 quarts of Prestone DOT 3 fluid; made a nice 'catch-can' out of 1/4" hose & a Gatorade bottle. I used lots of Permatex anti-seize during reassembly (after wire-brushing as much rust off as possible).

I had initially planned just rotor & pad change without cracking the brake lines, but now I'm glad I replaced the calipers; they weren't very expensive and should last for years.

Edit: My new calipers also had a 7mm bleeder screw, I had the right wrench so no issues.

 

Yeah, I laugh at all the "Quick swap brake jobs" on youtube that are daily drivers that have never seen road salt.."Tap out the pins"...HA! I also found that the rubber bleeder stopper fits pretty snuggly on the stainless line...Not super tight, but enough to stop continuous flow...So I said hey....I took the bleeder cap off, too the stainless brake line out of the caliper and capped it with the rubber cap. That meant I didn't have to string up the crappy caliper on the 2nd wheel and made things so much smoother. The rotor was another world rusted to the hub...

I snapped a 10mm bolt using the drive hole and was working using a sledge and pb blaster. I found another 10mm bolt (they are actually the same exact bolts that hold the skid plate on) and very carefully drove it into the hole...and eventually the rotor popped off..When I backed the bolt out it was practically on fire.


In the end what a beauty...too bad it's going to be rusted to hell in about 2 weeks...

 

BTW @10taco did you ever get a deal quote for this job? HOLY CRAP...It was like $700 a wheel for new calipers/rotors/brakes...and I also did my wheel bearings and assemblys...It was over $4K for all that from the dealer...I did it all for around $550-600 with the new tools I also bought..and the priceless experience of realizing that the LCA's and Ball joints that are also shittastic will need to be done as soon as I'm told "I'm sorry sir but we weren't able to align it"

 

I did not get a quote b/c I wanted to do the job myself. Technically, the job was not difficult at all. Except for the $#@(*&% rust. WOW, these Tacos rust quick in New England! I got the OEM parts from Westboro Toyota, through their eBay portal. A nice kit that included pads, rotors, pins & springs, all OEM. With the calipers (they are nice, Wearever brand from Advance Auto) and some fluid it was under $475 for everything.

I didn't check the rear brakes yet, I'll get to it before winter tho. Could just need a cleaning, but shoes & drums are a possibility.

@TreeFortRichard, don't forget to get the camera out again when you get to those ball joints; we'll be waiting for that write-up!

 

NOOOOOOO!!!

 

another NE taco 'quick' brake job... 0/4 trying to budge the pins. put it back together and got reman calipers from autozone. any other tips on breaking the rotors free? I don't imagine they are going to come off easy.

 

Oh my lord. I am so thankful to not live in a frozen wasteland.

That is horrid.

 

Geez I feel for y’all... screw all that

 

damn man! But it can be rebuilt and refinished easily.

 

You'll need the correct 'bolt' that threads into the face of the rotor, thru and into the inner hub; tightening the bolt pushes on the rotor and eventually breaks it free. Sorry, but I don't remember what size the bolt is; I was lucky enough to have one on hand. Using it on a pair of rotors pretty much destroys the bolt. Tighten the bolt some, bang on the rotor some, etc., repeat. Good luck!

 

Jesus Christ!

 

There is a bolt hole in the front of the Rotor that accepts an M8x1.25mm nut. I used my impact wrench and VERY carefully...tap trigger...tap trigger...drove the bolt in there to get my Rotors off AFTER spraying PB blaster inside the openings and letting it sit and then hitting it with a sledge hammer a few times...The left front came off fine...It will be a drive...drive...drive...POP rotor comes off...The right front snapped the bolt the first try but I was using the same bolt again. I imagine the bolt you use is going to get destroyed. It's the same size that fits the skid plate I think because I happened to have some extras from when they snapped once...Just use an impact wrench or socket and be patient.


ALSO it looks like you have a seized caliper there...see how uneven your pad wear is...that also wears your rotor unevenly...that's why I did a complete new everything...I had the same issue and did not have the time/patience to rebuild a caliper..

I went with this kit from Amazon...VERY happy. The truck stops like a champ now.. I followed all the break in procedures carefully...no issues...

$192 Power Stop Brake Kit For 2007-2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser, 2005-2022 Toyota Tacoma 6 Lug, 2003-2009 4Runner 12.56" Rotors - Front Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads & Drilled Slotted Rotors Replacement, K137

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FKS28C/
Power Stop K137 Front Z23 Evolution Brake Kit with Drilled/Slotted Rotors and Ceramic Brake Pads

 

I replaced a stripped wheel stud last fall and my caliper looked almost identical to yours, with my pads wearing unevenly too, so looks like I may need new calipers when I put on new pads and rotors this spring. Would there be any way of using a c-clamp or spreader to push the piston back in to unseize it?

 

What calipers did you replace the OEM's with and where did you buy them?

Edit: Was this what you replaced the OEM caliper with? This is the aftermarket caliper
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and...-reman-brake-caliper-front/198799_761937_5913

 

OP, thanks for the bolt size. Going to give it hell again this weekend. And yes, seized inner pistons on both sides - not so bad they were smoking, but definitely getting hot and I can feel them dragging.

@Markcal - Yup, those are the calipers I got from Autozone. I think most important is that casting #, 13WG. A C clamp would work for retracting the pistons, but I picked this up off Amazon for 13 bucks.


If you get something in there to free that piston, probably a good idea to get a new set of pins from the store and pop em in. They are cheap.

 

Thanks, I bought OEM ceramic pad, rotors and pins for when I do the replacement this spring, but hadn't thought about replacing the calipers too. That looks like money well spent for spreading the pistons. I bought an air hammer to use with my compressor, with PB Blaster I was hoping that would be enough to remove the rusted pins.

 

That's exactly what I used. Those calipers...remand. I did swap out the bleeder bolts from the remand with the ones off my originals because they are threaded the same but the originals have a larger diameter and fit on my bleeding hose..the remand once were TINY and 7mm...

I have the spreader that @ryan89p recommended...It worked great.

The only solution other than the remand calipers for $80 or so or Genuine OEM toyotas for like $300 EACH...

Make sure you grease up the caliper pins with a high temperature grease...I use superlube. I then rotate and check/regrease the pins when I change my oil that way they never seize..

 

Thanks, I wished I had done the preventive maintenance on the pins, which is the key where we live, so when it does come time for a brake job it can almost go as fast as the people on YouTube. This is what I will be using when I do my brakes in the spring: and I just order the caliper spreader.

 

- Driver and Pass. calipers, rotors, pads, and a fluid flush for about $350. PB and patience... Thanks for the help in this thread.