2009 Tacoma 2.7l Clutch line replacement

I'm replacing the hardline from the firewall next to the brake booster to the slave cylinder. The line runs about 3ft down>under the booster>down to a 8"x3/16 tube then another 8" hardline to the slave cylinder. I was wondering if i can replace it from top to bottom with a single braided brake line. I found a few 3/16 braided lines advertised for older toyota trucks. My main question is will the after market braided lines thread into the slave cylinder and the fitting coming through the firewall. I thought about buying premade brake lines already flared with the fittings on then bending it, and replacing the small length of hose with a steel braided line. If anyone else is interested in the project I will try to update and include photos and parts.

 

There is no reason why you can't replace the whole hydraulic system from master firewall to slave with a single length of Braided hose.
A good technique is to use a length of wire and route it along the path you desire. Take measurement of wire and the existing fitting(s) that thread in on each end and find a local hydraulic shop that is capable of building custom DOT lines.

 

Thanks for your response dkensk I didn't think of going to a hydraulic shop that's a great idea.
I got a 36" -3an 3/16 SSbraided ptfe line. Now I am waiting for a new slave to get my fitting there.
I need to get a 3/16 compression fitting union that will thread the elbow side of the tube.
Another thought I had was to come off the firewall "clutch line support" with a short hardline then attach to the braided line, same with the slave cylinder. about 3" of hardline then connected to the ptfe

 

Finding the metric to an stuff can sometimes be problematic depending what your local market is like.
I've always tried to keep less connections just because it provides less places to leak. But you gotta make do with whatcha got.
If you end up getting a custom line made up, they should be able to make it look similar to this. I plan on doing the one piece Braided line from firewall to Slave on my auto to R155f swap.

 

Is it going to be metric to an for the slavecylinder connection, and some kind of double -3an union for the top? I'm trying to find out what fitting I need for the braided line end to the firewall. the old line is there with the tube fitting, the thread on the firewall is slightly bigger than the thread in the braided hose. I want to try a few different unions that are only a couple dollars at both of the main part stores but I doubt it's going to work. I could also just bypass the firewall and hook the ptfe straight to the line off the master cylinder.
If the regular unions don't thread correctly then I am going to take with me to a hydraulic store the slave cylinder, braided ptfe and that long fitting off the old tube. Thanks for helping me keep this thread going I hope some of this info can help people in the future, when I started looking up how to repair this and I couldn't find anything helpful. It seems far more expensive and time consuming to replace it to how it was stock, but we'll see once I'm done with this project.

 

Be sure to post your final results. I have to stop by the local hydraulic shop tomorrow, I have all my clutch components loose, I'll take them in with me and verify the metric thread components. Should be able to help you get sorted

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-650307
This would be what you need to run your -3 AN line

 

I took my parts over to napa and showed them everything so far. They confirmed that both the firewall and slave took a m10x1.0 flared fitting so I got 2 3AN-M10x1.0 adapters they mimic the taper of the line coming through. You were very close with that fitting both of the female ends were slightly tapered on the inside so i went with these parts in the end. I order the slave Cylinder from Rock auto It was only $27 dollars there.

 

For clarification, here is the slave cylinder shown in the Amazon cart. You can see the plug and the inside is a 45 taper.
Again thank you for your responses I really couldn't have figured this out without some help. Btw I just now loaded the Russel Line if that's m10x1.0 I should have gotten that.

 

I'll have to look closer at what the Slave is. I did end up remaking the hard-line that goes between the firewall and master cylinder. It had been over torqued and swollen.

If you get chance you should post a close up of the fitting on the hard-line that threads into the engine side of firewall by the booster and the fitting that threads into slave.

 

This is for the older trucks but would likely work on a 2nd gen 4cyl truck. The lower fitting being fixed position would require installing the master cyl side last or threading into Slave cyl before bolting slave to trans.

Your method of using the an adapter will make a mucheasier install.

://www.ebay.com/itm/302996641181?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yvAI2b0ZTNm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=NCrs76xZTBG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

I just got back from a drive it feels brand new! I Just attached it to the top and put the other end inside the fluid resivoir and bled the master cylinder than attached and bled the slave using the bottle trick it was super easy to bleed. Now i just have to make sure the line doesn't rub on anything and replace that zip tie with something more heat friendly. There's enough slack in the hose for the movement of the transmission. I use some deductive reasoning, the line that was on the firewall originally threaded to slave cylinder thus the fitting is m10x1.0-AN3 It was less than $70 total and took 30 mins to remove the old parts then install and bleed. Thanks again dkensk for your help bro!

 

Man I am having one heck of a time getting the old soft line disconnected from the Original clutch master cylinder....

 

Alright...figured out that if you remove the bolts from the clutch you can slide the soft line all the way through and get screw driver in there to pop it off..
Now I'm playing the "thread the hard line" game.....
Dear god...

 

For anyone seeing this...I'm thinking I should have worked the hard line "loose" the way this guy does here...I just popped it on the new Clutch master and cranked away..
https://youtu.be/qPNuQCcwIyM?t=655

 

Going to give this a try since I the brake fluid was gushing out of my line this past weekend.