2007 wheel bearing replacement???

So I took my truck to big o tire and had my tires balanced and rotated this week and he guy tell me no charge but I had a driver's side wheel bearing going out.

First how did they know it was bad? Do they have a machine they can hook up to it and see if it's bad?

And second anu tips on changing the drivers side front wheel bearing? I can get a complete hub on Amazon for $100 or just the bearing from advanced auto for like $65?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

take your tire off. spin the hub slowly and if it dose not feel smooth it is going bad. spin the hub forward and backwards. I had one hub do bad not long ago.
What is your ODO?
Get complete hub and do both at the same time. Two sellers on here that sell good hubs.

 

^like he said. complete hub kits on here are DIY capable items, will need a 1/2" drive torque wrench, and the proper metric socket size for the hub nut.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-ive-done-the-work-you-save-the-money.288282/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-complete-save-custom-built-available.288055/

either of these guys will be able to help you out.

 

Jack your truck up. Grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and wiggle the tire. Should have minimal to no play. If there's play then your wheel bearing has worn out. As stated above there are a couple forum members here who make preasssembled wheel bearing/hub assemblies. Makes changing wheel bearings easy and you get new wheel studs and hub assembly. My 07 needed a a new passenger side wheel bearing around the 100,000km mark. Hope this helps

 

This is correct. 12 and 6 o'clock. A Toyota should have NO play. My 07 passenger side went first at 165k, so I did both. If you buy the pre-made hubs, be sure and get the "dust seal" which attaches to the CV axle. I couldn't find that part aftermarket. It was about $70 at the dealership. Lots of people reuse them, but for all the work to get to it that makes no sense to me. It is the first line of defense for dust and water entering the bearing. Make a PVC tool to install it.

 

Keep in mind not all bad wheel bearings have play when you wiggle them. Other signs are grinding noise when you spin the wheel, and humming noise while driving

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-ive-done-the-work-you-save-the-money.288282/

I've used these almost 100k ago. Still holding strong.

 

Bamatoy1997 pops the seals and greases the bearings in his kit with a high quality grease. From the factory these bearings only have a small dab of grease. That was the reason I chose his hubs over others.

 

Can you go into a little more detail about the dust seal? Are you saying if you purchase the remade hubs make sure to have them include the dust sealant? Just trying to clarify what you are saying.

 

the seal is right behind the CV joint

I always replace the seals when doing wheel bearings

 

It is the seal that rides against the back of the hub where the CV axles goes through. It is actually attached to the CV axle. Some of the hub builders offer this seal as an option, some do not. I said it was a $70 seal, but actually it was $70 for both sides.

 

I don't recall a seal on the CV axle. There is an outer seal, which goes on the wheel bearing assembly, where the hub presses into the assembly; and an inner seal that is on the knuckle.
Inner - 90316-A0001; or 710573 Timken/National
Outer - 90312-96001; or 710477 Timken/National

Replacing the inner seal is a PIA; you have to unbolt the lower BJ and the anti sway bar in order to swing the knuckle around to pop out the seal.

 

Would it be worth replacing all of them rather than just one, if money and time weren't an issue? As if to prepare for next wheeling season?

 

When my passenger side died I replaced both passenger and driver side. If you replaced both sides you could always save the used good wheel bearing assembly as a trail spare as well