2007 Tacoma ball joint replacement question

I have a 2007 Tacoma 4x4. 202000 miles. What's the easiest and best way to replace all ball joints? Dealer wants around $2000 to do it, with local parts, not Toyota parts. says you have to replace the whole control arm. Doesn't look like it to me. But I can probably do the tops fairly easy myself. But How do the bottoms come out? Does the little bracket on bottom with the 2 bolts have to come off to replace the bottoms?

 

You can replace them. But they are IN THERE TIGHT.
Good Luck.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-lca-ball-joint-replacement-2005-tacoma.176251/

 

I bought takeoffs (upper/lower complete arms) for my 2006 for $150 and changed them all out in a day.

 

That is the easiest way as long as the bushings/bolts are not seized.
But in that case, they need to come out any way. That is, if you ever want to get a decent alignment.

 

I'll just replace all the control arms with the ball joints already in them. I think I can do it. Doesn't look too bad. I wasn't real sure about the steering stop but the link showed what to do. Sure beats the dealers outrageous price

 

Mine were brand new take offs.

 

I mean the bolts in the control arm if the truck.
They like to seize up. Which makes getting the old control arms off difficult.
You usually have to cut the bolts.

 

I recommend new complete arms. Less labor involved, and your bushings are probably shot anyways.

Be prepared to need new caster/camber bolts. If they are seized, you will have to cut the arms out. Still easier than pressing bushings and ball joints.

 

Oh right, right. I'm in Texas so mine was easy peasy.

 

Yeap, After exploding the Autozone rental press doing a Ram 1500, I don't think I want to "press" my luck anymore.
Not if I don't have to.

On a sidenote, The guy at Autozone said it was impressive. And gave me my full rental refund back
Said he, "Never seen one in pieces like that."

 

I hammered my old ones out.

 

I found a complete rebuild kit on rock auto. It's a mevotech kit with all 4 control arms with ball joints, sway bar links, and both outer tie rod ends. I think I can do it myself

 

I've used MevoTech on 2 different Ram 1500 trucks.
Seemed like a well built product. Neither have had any issues since.

 

I’m running OE used LCAs repainted with Moog parts I think. Greasable LBJs and bushings that are easy to mess up pressing in. Knocked the old ones out with a hammer and bottle jack.

only obvious thing standing out I could’ve done different at the time was maybe stripping the paint to lay down a bunch of weld on the LCAs to strengthen and reinforce it for much cheaper than buying an aftermarket fabricated steel LCA kit ($1-2k)

not to mention most of those are longer travel, maybe only one is stock length which may not even be worth the money to at the end of the day have stock travel.

 

You'll need the adjustment cam bolts at the lower control arms too if they're seized. The guys above ^^ are not kidding, they might need to be cut out to get the arms off

 

if you end up replacing cam bolts
OEM might be better

aftermarket seems different and have heard they don’t fit well.

saw this happen to a co worker with a 4runner. Dealer was out of stock so he got aftermarket. The cams were small and loose not exactly the same precise size as OEM that unfortunately costs more new.

 

I'm thinking they said whole arms because:

1. It's easier
2. Either way have to check the alignment so easier if the arm/bolts are new (or at least have been removed/replaced so you know they are not seized.
3. They can charge you more for the parts markup than they could just for the ball joint.

Edit - forgot to add. If the arms are old, the bushings may need replacing too, so then it turns into 'we have to change the bushings and the ball joint, which turns into more hassle and cost than just swapping new arm with new ball joint and bushings already installed.

 

depends where
DIY? Labor is 0.

shop? Labor likely at least 2hr @ $230+hr, starts to justify whole new arms that don’t need refreshing labor.

I wonder if poly inner bushings are worth it.
Only past experience with poly control arm bushings was on a previous car where it’s not recommended over rubber as they tend to tear apart quickly for some reason.

The bushings in a new OEM arm are probably good quality but unfortunately the outer joint doesn’t have a zerk fitting. I’ve seen people drill tap and add zerks but that could introduce shavings into the joint. That may or may not be possible to clean out during the job. Or putting a greasable joint of some kind.

that or just not having a zerk there and running it until it wears out naturally around 100k the next time around or whenever.

at which point you end up with spare arms if you have room to keep them.
That’s another option now. Worn old spare arms in need of work on the bench can be found for cheap or free.

whatever pretend-the-same crap I made the mistake of buying on eBay for cheap was janky and supposedly too short dimensions wise, preventing proper alignment. Maybe $50/ea. learned that lesson the hard way.

 

Where OP says "Dealer wants around $2000 to do it"

 

I only checked with the local dealer because I assumed they used Toyota parts. They said they use local auto parts store parts unless I requested Toyota parts, then it's even more. I just can't spend $2500 or more on some ball joints. The mevotech kit is like $450 on rock auto. Even if I get a shop to do it it won't be too much. It's my spare truck anyway. It doesn't get drove much or hard. I just figured at 202000 miles it needs it before it's too late