2007 spare tire winch broken with tire up - maybe worse

I was putting the spare back in, I must have tightened too much. It appears part of the hook shaped part may have broken in the winch. The only way I could see getting the spare down would be to somehow remove the part that is at the end of the cable, which is quite rusted. It would likely break, but that wouldn't matter since the winch is shot.

While underneath, I saw that the rust is much worse than I thought. I'm thinking now I may need to make a major unexpected decision. I was going to secure the spare in the bed with a cargo bar, but it seems the ratchet points were too coarse and I couldn't get it tight across the bed, so I decided for now to store it underneath. Maybe it's a 'blessing in disguise' now knowing how bad the rust is.

I'd likely bring it to a shop for the spare tire situation. My questions are, does it look like the plate holding the tire could be removed, and is the rust to a point where it's a major concern? As always, I value the opinions of member here.

 

A grinder or cut off wheel would remove the end of the cable. Expect the wheel to fall on you of course.

 

Cut it just above the bolt? I'd have to figure out something to prop the wheel up.

 

Below the spring.

 

Ok thanks.

 

Holy RUST!

 

You could use tie down straps to hold the wheel in place or just not be underneath it when it falls.

 

Ugh, that frame rust. Still blows my mind that after the debacle with the 1st gen Tacomas Toyota turned around and did the exact same thing with the 2nd gen.

If that frame isn't trashed you can cut the broken tire lift out and get one from a jukyard or wherever you can find one and put it in. When I do my periodic maintenance I'll first blast the assembly out with whatever cleaner I've got on hard, usually cheap carb cleaner, then after it's had time to dry I liberally spray motorcycle chain lube in the thing. Been doing it that way for a couple of trucks now and so far no problems, but we don't salt the roads here and I don't live on the coast.

As far as getting the tire off, if it's completely frozen up I'd just put cribbing under the tire to hold it in place (so it doesn't fall on you while you're under it; don't forget to wear a pair of quality wrap around safety glasses) and cut that rusty nut off and it'll probably just fall off. If not then I'd cut the plate.

 

Can you see a broken piece through the opening? If the slot is sideways, you may be able to knock it out a broken piece with the lug wrench pieces, or pull it out with a very long magnet tool.

 

Yep, the rust is very concerning. The frame may be toast, it looks like toast. Since part of the hook at the end of the tool broke off, I'll have to resort to cutting. Last year I got the spare down, took a while, but once it was down lubricated the wire and mechanism. The spare went back up fine. It went down a few weeks ago when I had a flat. It was stupid what I did today, simply didn't stop turning the tool when the tire was all the way up. I should have looked underneath.

I looked with a flashlight, what I see looks like it's really stuck in there. The photo of the new one is a good reference though. Now it makes more sense what I saw. Tomorrow I'll see if I have anything at all that I could try to hit it out with. Don't have a strong magnet, but a good idea.

A unrelated winch question - this is a tool question. What I planned to do was secure the spare in the bed, flat with a tarp cut to size, with a ratcheting cargo bar over it. Maybe it's because I bought a cheap discount tool store one, but I couldn't get it to fit. When it was tight across the bed over the tire, I couldn't move the bar down to lock it in place. I tried a couple of different thickness pieces of wood used as shims, no luck. It's like the ratchet steps are too coarse, too tight or not tight enough. I wonder if there's different type ratchets, meaning one with more steps in the gear-like piece for a more exact adjustment that sets the length.

 

A shop will cut off the end fitting on the cable with a torch. Then the little coil spring and 4" bracket holding the wheel will fall off. You can do the same with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel.



May not be worthwhile though given the frame rust. Even the spare wheel is heavily rusted (looks like someone painted over the rust scales). I'm surprised the wheel is still holding air. Check on the frame rails' inboard surface (side facing the engine) just aft of the front wheels. If you find rust holes there larger than 10mm, you might as well call a wrecker instead of a repair shop.

 

I have an angle grinder, will keep that option in mind.

You know your vehicles! AAA refused to put on the spare a few weeks ago due to rust. I couldn't get the wheel lugs off. The shop I had it towed to fixed the tire (ran over a nail) and cleaned off the rust on the spare's rim (or so I was told) for no charge.

Noted re: what else to check. The big concern I saw already was the hole in the 2nd photo, seems like that section is an integral part of what's holding the winch and tire. Years ago checked out a 2005 Silverado, looked for the spare underneath, there was none. Also terrible rust and nothing to hold a spare.

 

^If the spare tire is the 17 year-old factory original, then the rubber is probably hard as plastic and ready for the salvage yard.

I don't see any rust holes in the pictures you posted.

This area on the frame, just aft of the front wheels, will be the first to go. Check both left and right sides of the vehicle. There will likely be a lot of rust scales and flaking, so you'll need to clean up the area with a wire brush and putty knife, then check for through holes.

 

Ok thanks for the info and reference photo. Before one of the TMPS sensors went earlier this year (light flashes then steady so one or more sensors not communicating) the spare was low, and surprisingly held air when I added it and the light went off. I'm surprised the system was working up until about 8 months ago, the sensors had to have been replaced at some point.

My son's brother in law used to work for a Toyota dealership and replaced several frames. He said the same, once there's holes consider it done.

 

I know I should have removed the surface rust for a more accurate assessment, but it doesn't look good. There appears to be at least one hole close to the one in your reference photo. I first thought it was by design because it seemed round, not random, but I don't see the same in your photo. Also maybe another above.

I do wonder why there's so much surface rust, much more than my 5 year older truck. But, I bought both at around 15 years old so I don't know the history.

 

^Upper small hole is from manufacture (some years have it). The big lower hole is from rust.

The frame rusts there first due to a convergence of factors. One factor is the outboard face of the frame rail has a big opening there inside the cab mount.

What the area looks like with increased rust progression. You can see the manufactured hole on the outboard face (click for full resolution):



Given the rust elsewhere on the frame I would not recommend spending any more time or money on the truck if it's intended for street use. Call a wrecker.

 

Oh boy. That's what I was afraid of. Will have to plan accordingly.

 

I didn't call a wrecker. Traded it in. Of course took a financial hit. Disclosed the spare tire situation to the dealer. After checking the frame he was more concerned about a small oil leak that I've had for a while. I think it's from the oil filter housing which I heard is somewhat common. The dealer must have spotted oil in the upper part of the engine, because he mentioned the possibility of a bad head gasket. I rarely needed to add anti-freeze or ever smelled it - and the temperature gauge never deviated from mid way once warmed up.