2007 2.7L Coolant Bypass Pipe Replacement Info & Photos

Just replaced the plastic coolant bypass line on my 2007 2.7L and thought I would post pictures and info for anyone else wanting to tackle the project. It wasn't leaking and the plastic pipe was in good condition but my OCD would not let me wait so this got filed under preventative maintenance. Took a total of 6 hours over two days (3 hours for removal/cleaning/prepping and three hours for install and testing).

This video is very helpful and it's what I watched before tackling this job: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4IfRgUcCkM

I removed the intake manifold for easy access and decided to replace the thermostat at this time since it's original (153,000 miles). Below is a parts list. I reused my coolant since it's less than a year old.

Parts I ordered:

Part Description Part Number Price Applicable Torque

Bypass Pipe: 1626875112 $41.42 13 ft-lb
Pipe Gasket: 1625875021 $3.67
Nuts x 2: 90178A0024 $1.05 x 2

Thermostat: 9091603093 $20.70 15 ft-lb
Inlet gasket: 1632575011 $10.87
Seat gasket: 1632576010 $5.54

Intake mnfld gskt: 1717775040 $29.60 18 ft-lb
Throttle body gskt: 2227175070 $4.00 80 in-lb
Ventilation hose: 12263-75070 $8.37


Took photos before I started in case I forgot where something hooks up then drained the radiator. Removed the Intake Air Connector assembly (3 bolts connecting to the valve cover) and associated tubing and electrical connectors.


I like to wrap exposed nipples with blue tape to keep foreign matter out but to also provide a visual cue that contrasts with the general black color of the engine so I can see if I forgot to hook something up at the end. Blue tape can be applied to electrical connectors too as visual reminders.

Remove two bolts and two nuts of Throttle Body, electrical connector and two small hoses then remove throttle body.

Disconnect fuel line bracket from Intake Manifold and unhook two fuel lines and move them out of the way to allow more clearance for Intake Manifold to come out. Disconnect heat hose bracket from Intake Manifold as well as AC Compressor wiring harness bracket near dipstick. Disconnect hoses and tubing from Intake Manifold remembering there is a the ventilation hose at the rear of the manifold against the firewall which is very hard to get to (this hose gets replaced as they get brittle over time).



Remove the two nuts and five bolts for the Intake Manifold. The two lowest bolts can be removed through the driver's side wheel well right above the tire. You'll need about a three foot extension for your 12mm socket. I connected a bunch of socket extensions and taped them together at the joints using electrical tape so they wouldn't come apart and it was fairly easy. Slide manifold off the two upper studs and then rotate 90° to slide it out.

Remove two hose at rear of coolant pipe and then remove bolt holding rear bracket of pipe. Remove two bolts holding pipe to thermostat housing.

Clean thermostat housing gasket surface as well as cylinder head intake port gasket surfaces and throttle body bottom gasket surface. Install new gasket on thermostat housing for new pipe. Install new metal pipe and two nuts (13 ft-lbs). Install rear bracket bolt and two hoses.

Install new gasket on intake manifold as well as new ventilation hose and install it. Once in place before installing nuts/bolts, attach rear ventilation hose to metal pipe. I put some cushioning and carpet over the valve cover and laid down so I could reach between the Intake Manifold and the firewall for access to that ventilation hose. This was the most difficult (physically) part of the job). Then install the two nuts and five bolts for the Intake Manifold (18 ft-lbs) and then reconnect all the hose and electrical connectors and brackets and then the Throttle Body with new gasket and then the Intake Air Connector and hoses and electrical connectors.

Refill with coolant and then look over everything to make sure nothing is unplugged or disconnected. I found the hose between the Intake Air Connector and valve cover was still disconnected and I only noticed it because I saw blue tape where there should be any. So the blue tape does help.

 

Awesome post

Thanks for sharing.

 

That's a good write up bud! Nice work!

 

Great write up ! I just replaced my plastic water pipe in June too. Just my 2 cents which made my job easier, I removed the upper right manifold stud, with a 8mm socket because it made replacing the manifold AND the little rubber hose at the rear of the manifold MUCH easier to attach while trying not to displace the manifold gasket when moving the manifold back into place. Once the manifold is in position, you can thread the stud back into the head.

 

Awesome write up, thank you for posting. Some how I ended up ordering the original gasket for the coolant by-pass pipe, but the gasket PN you have listed looks like the right one.

I did this on a 07 Tacoma that has spent 17 years in the northeast. As such, most bolts are a battle. This job was going smoothly (too smoothly...) until the LAST bolt, which was the bottom right bolt on the intake manifold.

This bolt was rusty and siezed and partially obscured by the starter, and the 12mm socket started spinning on the bolt head. Even after removing the starter I wasn't able to pound a 11mm or 7/16" socket onto the bolt and remove it, so I ended up having to drill out the bolt.

So, word from the "wise" - if this bolt gives you any trouble, you may want to preemptively remove your driverside tire (if you didn't already) and your starter, so you don't end up stripping the head of the bolt and having to drill it out through the wheel well.

 

6 point socket and pre soak with penetrant seems like a good move too....

 

Great suggestions ! Thanks.

 

Nice post. I did this a few years ago and don't think it's possible to do with the intake manifold installed. I didn't do any prior investigation, just tore into with the intake in place, and couldn't get the line installed. The intake is easy enough to remove, just buy the gaskets in advance- I didn't. I went to Advance auto and the Fel Pro intake gasket fit fine, but the throttle body gasket they sold me didn't fit- it was the correct PN in their computer, but IIRC it was too big. Since the o-ring surface on the original gasket was still "proud", I reused it with no issues. So, get the throttle body gasket from the dealer for sure.

 

Yeah, all the above was done ahead of time but she didn't budge. Would have been nice if there was not a plastic intake manifold behind it and I could have given it some heat.

 

Thank you for this excellent write up!

 

This is totally me. I replaced mine a year ago. Excellent write up and pictures.

 

Be glad that it got replaced before it cracked! Those things are at a pretty low point in the cooling system and can definitely start to spew water fast when they crack.