2001 Tacoma Alternator Sense Wire

Hello all,
I am trying to learn about the charging system to my 2001 Toyota Tacoma with the 3.4. I want to know where the sense wire is on the truck, in hopes of using diodes to increase voltage from about 13.8v to 15.5v. I am doing this so I can run lithium batteries in the truck in order to run accessories that pull a lot of power. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Rocco

 

That's going to be the S-Terminal Pin 3 (White), it's powered by the ALT-S Fuse 7.5A. Note the the regulator is temperature compensated so regulating voltage will decrease as temperature increases and increase as temperature decreases.

I'd be cautious of bumping the voltage too high as some vehicle electronics don't like much more than 15-16v, the amount of accessory load your gona be able to run continuously is gona be limited by the amperage output of the alternator anyway unless your running high loads in short bursts.

 

I really appreciate the feedback

 

Lithium ion doesn't do well above 100 degree heat......they deteriorate quickly
especially Lipo's...

The hybrid battery packs in Vegas area......have a shorter lifespan...

Tesla liquid cools theirs.........reason they get 20K for a new set of packs

 

I wouldn't run above 15v peak. Thats the max acceptable charging voltage for most vehicles. Any higher and you risk damage to electrical stuff like computers. Heres a website explaining how Toyota wires their alternator.
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/39441708/Toyota Alternators

 

@O’Silver_Taco it’s going to be in the cabin and I’m still trying to figure out what chemistry. Many people running audio systems have lithium inside of their vehicles to power amps.

 

Thanks for the link.

 

The super caps where made for audio ....

Gravity 5 Farad Capacitor Audio UP TO 6000 Watts Power 12V Car Digital Power 618952497337 | eBay

 

I would REALLY consider a dedicated device for charging your Lithium batteries. That's coming from me - someone who slaps the jankinest shit together to get any given thing done with a cool factor. Diodes may be fine for an AGM, not Lithium.

That said, temp component can be taken care of by relocating to the cab. Good luck with the fire!

 

I’d advise you to check out the Facebook group called DIY lithium, I’m not claiming to be an expert,(why I am here asking for info.) but tons of people in the audio game run diodes and lithium in there cars. Also the people that have fires usually it is operator error and those are really rare if you run the gear properly. I used to think in a similar way until I did research

 

I my experience car audio folk are on par with 70 IQ Kyles so I'll take that with a grain of salt but acknowledge I might be wrong

 

The hard shell li-ion eventually developed dendrites that short the cell out...

Reason they ban the bike ones in NewYork recently...

So you're left with LI-po......lithium polymer.......

These hold only half the juice....and cost three times the cylindrical ones....

and require expensive multi cell balancing chargers....

20mah 4s lipo would go for $150~ $200.....and the charger another $300......and $100 power supply to run the charger...

 

Take a look at DC/DC chargers for keeping your second batt fed, either way you are running wires, but this keeps your alternator and vehicle electrical system happy and will easily keep your Li battery in the cab happy.