2 Inch ReadyLift Level Kit - Ride Quality Concern: Need Advice

Looking for help/advice.....

2017 TRD OR. Purchased in October. I put 265/75/r16 Duratracs on day 1.

2 weeks ago I had the ReadyLift level kit installed at the dealership. 2” front spacers and a 2” tapered block in rear. I wanted to keep some rake so that I’m not nose high with a loaded bed...that’s why I went 2” in the rear.

The ride quality has really suffered after this lift. Hard to explain, but the truck just feels really sluggish....almost like I’m pulling something. This strange feeling of drag when accelerating. I drove the larger AT tires for a few months...so I was already used to the larger tires with off-road tread. Those added drag and noise, but this is new and worse. There is also a vibration at 50-60 mph.

I checked...The truck was aligned after the lift.

I’m really stumped on this one. I know there are mixed opinions on spacers, but one of the universal comments is that the ride quality is generally unaffected. This is my first lift.... is this just a normal compromise? I Love the look, but I’m not enjoying driving the truck. Would love to hear thoughts or suggestions.

 

blocks are the first issue, blocks typically ruins ride quality. Might want to consider 5100's/OME springs and leaf packs.

 

When you raise a truck it also experiences higher wind resistance, by wind going under the fenders and body, may make a little difference according to some jeep guys, but check these two items below:

1. make sure the larger side of the rear block is facing the back and the smaller side if facing forward, this will affect your driveshaft alignment.

2. if #1 is correct, put in 4wd, if vibration stops, it is the left clamshell bearing, to cure you can replace with eastcoastgearsupply.com 8" clamshell bushing

 

Thanks all. Blocks are definitely the first culprit. I checked the orientation. They look to be installed correctly...tapering towards the front of the truck. However there is a metal shim of sorts sandwiched on top of the block. I’ve included a photo a circled this piece in red. The photo of this block kit on the ReadyLift webpage shows no such piece. I’m suspicious. Anyone seen one of these installed on top of a block?

 

I had that same lift on my truck when I bought it new. It does not have the driveline shims but just tapered blocks? Not sure you need both? Since i bought it new that way the dealer changed the needle bearing twice. Second time with ESGS bushing at no cost. Had no vibrations since. Still have blocks but recently changed to Kings all around. Big difference in ride.

 

Just get rid of the block and go with a 2” AAL instead. Or a whole new leaf pack. Ironman and Dobinsons off-road make rear leafs that lift around 2”.

I’m assuming block was chosen based on budget though. I just lifted my rear with a 1.5” AAL and it rides fine.

I think order of ride comfort based on opinions/facts here are Leaf pack>AAL>>Block.

 

Clicked this thread for Dwight schrute.

 

Can the spacers be part of the poor ride quality as well? It really is a strange feeling of excess drag. This engine struggles enough as is. The Duratracs didn’t help, but whatever this lift did put it over the top.

The driveline shim seems odd to me. The way it’s placed, it effectively removes the taper and makes the block level. I imagine the block is tapered for a reason. Could this tiny piece of metal make that a noticeable change in ride?

 

My friend can’t stop commenting about how much better my AAL lift rides than his blocks whenever he’s in my truck, so I think adding blocks is not the way to go, in fact they’re as good as...

 

I have no experience with driveline problems.

I found this short video very helpful in explaining and demonstrating the need for equal and opposite angles at each end of your driveshaft as to allow your U-joints to turn at the same speed. It sounds like trying to bring your driveshaft into alignment with the rear differential by shimming the rear axle a couple of degrees could cause large vibrations and binding because the U-joints might then be turning out of sync.

I would have thought, like perhaps many people, that close to alignment is best, but it would seem that from watching the demonstration, this is not the case.

The OP drivability problems sound kind of like U-joints that are turning at different speeds because of driveline angles that are not equal and opposite.

It seems that perhaps shimming the rear differential just a few degrees and trying to bring it into alignment with the driveshaft might create additional problems by moving the rear differential out of level while also creating angles that are not equal/opposite at both ends of the driveshaft.

From the video, it looks like keeping the rear differential level along with the stock attachment at the front of your driveshaft level, you would be keeping the angles at each end of the driveshaft equal but opposite, regardless of the height difference between your rear axle and transmission.

I myself have never had driveline problems or ride quality affected by 1/2 or 1 inch spacer blocks on pickups or jacked up rear ends with air-shocks on cars. The rear difs were kept level.
Doesn't the slip yoke make up for the slight change in needed driveshaft length while your rear suspension is moving up and down?

It seems that loading your pick-up bed with a 1,200 pound load changes the level of your rear axle in relation to the front attachment point of the driveshaft, but doesn't affect the ride or driveline equal/opposite angles much because the rear differential is still close to level regardless of whether it is higher or lower, similar to adding blocks for raising, or for lowering your vehicle.

Again, no experience with this problem, but the video was like a light bulb.

 

1.5” toytec block, ome carrier drop... ran on my 3rd and 2nd gen.. have never had a single issue. (I hit fs roads, trails, tow 2-3k lbs quite often.)