2.7L Transmission Fluid Dipstick Marks...?

I posted this in the 4-Cylinder section and am not getting any responses, so I thought I would post it here...probably same dipstick, so maybe it may help someone else. My truck: '14 Base, Access Cab, 2.7L Auto, 5-Lug.

I can NOT find anywhere what the markings/notches on my transmission dipstick mean. My fluid comes to the mark I labeled "Min Hot"...so I think I need to add fluid. I checked it 30 min. after an hour highway drive...truck ON, slowly shifted through the gears D to L and back...then checked dipstick. I think that's the correct way. I'm just not sure what the notches are...do I have them labeled correctly?

 

What does the owner's manual have to offer?

 

Nothing...zippo...nadda...at least not that I could find.

 

The marks are identical to those found on a 1st Gen 2.4L automatic. At least they are the same as the dip stick I had in my 2004 Tacoma 2.4L automatic.

My owners manual had no info whatsoever about the transmission dipstick.

Your marks tells the story - nothing more to it.

PS - be glad you have a dip stick - 6 cyl 2nd Gen models do not.

 

When Cool it should be between the two marks labeled " Cool ".

When Hot it should be between the two marks labeled " Hot ".

Your assumption is 100% correct.

That is what they mean, and cars / trucks have been marked that way as long as I can remember.

 

Do you Really Think they are going to check it?

Really?

 

1) guessing he actually cares

2) Toyota tells-you-they-care doesn't last forever. Better to learn now than later

3) not everyone has a dealership close by. Especially if you actually travel.

4) some of us prefer to DIY, correctly, than to hand it over to a stranger. There are great techs at most dealerships. And some not so much. Do you know which you'll get?

 

Maybe because they when "they" messed with it they left me about 1.5 quarts of engine oil too high...or when "they" messed with it they left me about 1 quart of transmission too low...or when "they" messed with it they did a 'courtesy wash' and left swirl marks on my truck. You really can't take your truck to the dealer every time you need to check a fluid level.

Over the years, I have found the less anybody else messes with my cars, the better...at least 50% of the time...something else gets messed up...and this is across the board...Lexus, Toyota, BMW, Porsche, Chevy, etc....all of them. Bottom line: NOBODY is gonna take care of your car/truck like you.

BTW...I don't even know what "ToyotaCare" is...is that the factory bumper-to-bumper warranty?


Thanks for the replies...this forum is a great resource!

 

It should be called ToyotaCaresButTheDealerDoesntGive-a-Shit

New Toyotas. 5 free services during the first 25K - one every 5K. At 5K all vehicles get a tire rotation. Those that run conventional oil get it changed at 5K; those that use 0W-20 synthetic get it changed at 10K and 20K, except the 2.7L Tacoma which gets its 0W-20 changed every 5K. There may be other "exceptions" to this 0W-20 thing.

Dealer supposedly checks other fluids and eye-balls brake pad wear, etc - at least that's what a dealer told me during a 10K ToyotaCare visit for my '14 4Runner. They did not torque lugs correctly - over-inflated tires - inflation very uneven on all 4 tires and they WAY over-tightened the oil filter housing that's buried under a large metal plate down below.

What good is free if you have to spend your time checking their bad work?

 

Oh yeah...I forgot that...they did that on mine too...like 12 psi variation all around the tires. These "inspections" they do are a complete joke...mine had the 161 (?) point "Certified Toyota Pre-Inspection" thing...and practically nothing is correct. I'm going tomorrow to get the tires balanced and an alignment done...truck needs both.

I bought the truck with 31K miles...so I'm "out" of the ToyotaCare thing.

 

Last thing...anyone know how much fluid is represented between the "Min Hot" and "Max Hot" marks on the stick...approximately? And I guess I just get a small funnel and add the fluid through the dipstick hole?

 

That is the way you do it... They make long funnels just for this. Pour slowly or you will have a mess.

 

I seem to recall about 8 oz between mn full & max full, but will say this too...

I wouldn't add too much if u r at min full. It's still cool outside compared to what it's going to be in say July. Your AT fluid will rise as it gets hotter. That's what I experienced in the 1st Gen 4 cyl auto I had. I know yours is 2nd Gen, but something to consider.

If you add fluid - say 4 oz - drive it around for a bit - then recheck level - add and recheck in small increments. You don't want to overfill.

 

Hello. I just did this. I couldnt find decent documentation, so here is my contribution. Its pretty easy and I was hesitant because I've had bad past experiences with transmission, but then again, it was a dodge that failed after I maintenanced it. LOL. Why am I doing this now? If it aint broke.... Well I've had a case of T-IV fluid on the shelf and 2 gaskets, plus a measured 5qt pail for a year. There hasnt been any real problem, but I did notice that things are sloppier lately. I have put 100k on the truck. I also realized that the Ujoint looks like it leaked the grease out in the tunnel so I'll be doing that next.

Truck - 2.7 2009 base, a340e, owned since 30k, currently 133k, no towing, mixed driving. I drive easy.

Observation - currently 60f (Delaware), fluid always at the bottom of "hot" operation when really warmed up. Always pink, looks good. Draining it into the bucket it looked good, but I could see some expected oxidation. Smooth in appearance. Filled the bucket to exactly the 120oz (3.5+qt) line on the bucket if its accurate. There was a little spillage, but nothing significant. I drained it warm after about 20 miles of driving and letting it sit to cool for 30mins. Left it on the wheels, no need for stands, the buckets fit right under the plug and you want to keep it level. Nothing noticeable in the pouring. Surprised that the plug is not magnetic, but I forgot they're in the pan. The shifting was ok, but a little sloppy in the mornings. I always take it easiest until its warmed up and then still take my time. I'm not going to pass anyone in this thing lol. I did however notice lately that it doesnt kick down as easy and I have to give it more pedal to coax it. According to the FSM, pedal position controls the line pressure valve in the body. I have never had problem but always wondered if its actually too low on fluid to keep pressures up, especially as it ages. It may not even lock up the t/c until its fully warm but that might be electronic logic or waiting on fluid expansion. Its always been reliable.

Replacement of 3.75qt at first since thats about what the bucket reads. Took it for a 5 mile drive in after work traffic on a loop and checked again after it was pretty warm from that drive. I saw that the fluid was _just_ below the bottom hot mark, so I went ahead and dumped the remaining .25qt into the tube. I had to take it for another loop just to make sure the tube drained and when I checked this time, it was about 3/5 between high and low on the warm measurement and looked appropriate. So, there is around a quarter quart between those lines if I did this right, and that makes sense. I observed that it finds gears 3/4 easier and responds to kick down and t/c unlock easier. It may be the observation effect, but I think it actually made a difference. It seemed to lock up the t/c at cruise much more readily now and overall smoother (faster?) shifts. It could have been the fluid level reducing performance.

I'll make sure to take it for a spin in the morning as it will be 35-40f so I'll see if it made the arthritic-like behavior any better and report back. I'm going to drive it for a week or so and do this again since I have 4qts still on the shelf.

If you do it right, its definitely 4qt, not 2.9qt like the manual reports. That has to be a different gear box.

 

My 2013 double cab prerunner with 2.7 automatic.

When I pull my transmission dipstick on a cold engine, sitting overnight, level garage, it is at the top notch Max Hot. Drive it around for 30 minutes, park in garage, shift through the gears, put in neutral engine running, it is halfway between MIN and MAX hot notches.

I always thought the level would be higher on a cold engine reading and always get the accurate reading when the tranny is hot and checked while running?

 

Actually I should correct what I said. I didn't math. Its MORE than 2.9qt (probably up to 3.5-3.75 based on the container) if you're not under filled and I believe that my truck was very slightly under filled, especially if its going to be in colder average weather. I had the truck in NC and relocated to DE. It seems sensitive to expansion (and likely aeration). Measure and replace what you remove. You can keep what you kill.

Observation - Today and now its 51f. I took the long way to the bottle shop to pick up some Golden Monkey. Shifting is improved. Lockup still takes about a mile of driving, but once I'm at 2 miles, kick down and shifting is more precise. I don't think its the observation effect...I'm not a quantum mechanic. I checked the fluid after the ride and its right above the low mark on hot, where I wanted it.

Now, on to replace 3 universal joints and a carrier bearing. But first a sip of that Belgian inspired beverage.

Cheers!

 

I dont think its higher on a cold engine because the fluid hasn't expanded. I've always thought we're supposed to check it in park after rowing through the selections. Mine has always been at the bottom of hot, but I dont know if it was filled that way to save money on volume vs number of manufactured cars or because they expect the expansion to make up the difference on very hot days or towing (not that I'd tow much with this truck anyway).

There is definitely a better engagement of shifting up and down at minimal pedal application with a little more fluid to bring the line above the low mark on HOT. I think there may be some slop in the ujoints that may mimic crappy shifting but I also think my ujoints have been failed for over a year and I didnt realize it. I have never had the experience of troubleshooting the drive shaft and there is a problem with it singing at cruise. I never bothered to do the tsb.

 

Update. It recently got warmer here. Its been in the mid 70's. After getting back from a 100 mile trip and driving at speeds around 70mph for sustained periods of time, I checked the fluid levels for expansion when I got to my destination. The marks on the stick were at the exact top of the HOT section of the dipstick. I parked on the same level surface and shifted through all gear selections before checking. It makes me wonder how much temperature and aeration expansion could impact the levels when the weather is truly hot. I plan to drain/refill the fluid again since I have 4qts left on the shelf, so I might put just a little less back in than my first change. My shifting is fine and somewhat improved since the change, but that might be simply due to new fluid after 130k miles of use. I thought this may be due to better pressures with more fluid. Its hard to determine when you're dealing with two variables. I dont tow or haul anything heavy, so it looks pretty new and not very oxidized. FWIW, when filling through the dipstick hole, you might want to get one of those tube funnel combos and hook up a brass coupling to fit inside the tube better. Using the funnel only put the tip of it into the tube a few millimeters and I had a bit of spillage since this stuff is being shoved down a straw.