2.7L (2TRFE) Cold Start Knocking Issues

Hello all,

I am currently packaging up an oil sample to be taken to Blackstone Labs for further testing, but wanted a few opinions from people who know.

I have a 2013 Tacoma equipped with the 2.7L. I purchased my truck new back in 2013, and have religiously changed the oil and filter every 5k. Only high quality filters and full synthetic oil. 0W-20 from day one (as that's what the cap says). The truck currently has 69k miles on it.

I live in Chicago. Since I have had the truck, we have had numerous days in the negatives, and some of the coldest winters ever. There are weeks when I would have to start my truck at 10 degrees or lower every day, and maintain this for weeks on end. This trend usually ends in March and begins in November.

The past two years the motor began to knock at cold start (during the winter). Usually lasting 60-120 seconds, sometimes longer. At operating temp everything is fine. It began with only doing this when it was very cold (negatives or single digits). Lately it is still knocking lightly even at higher temps (in the 30's). I am beginning to be concerned.

I know that piston slap has been mentioned before, but is this simple piston slap? If it always goes away at operating temp, should I be concerned? Is there anything I can use to prevent this? The truck has 69k miles.

Lastly, if it seems that I am overly worried, I have some reason to be. This truck was something my mom helped me get when I turned 18, and she passed away suddenly a few months ago. This truck means alot to me, so that's why I may give more of a shit than I probably should.

 

ill get a lil knocking from my v6 on "cold starts" (cold for socal) but it goes away when its warming up and never had an issue. Toyota taco motors have always been rather uh, noisy.

The 2.7L is a BULLETPROOF motor. The way it was designed and its oiling setup is pretty damn amazing. Shes just a lil cold in the mornings and complains, but nothing to really worry about. Maybe consider changing brands of oil to see if it changes the noise / helps / makes it worse on your next oil change. But id honestly doubt you will have any issues with that motor for the rest of the trucks life as it sounds like you are doing maintenance right.

 

Thanks man! I appreciate you input!

 

Have you tried a 30 weight oil?

 

That wouldn't help me if it is fine at OP temp would it?

 

The heavier weight might give you a better hydrodynamic cushion. Cheap and worth a try.

It is yet to be determined the exact source of the "knock" which you describe. Be it lifters or piston slap, upping on the weight can help to reduce it.

 

If you don't want to wait to do an oil change, then add in some Lucas Heavy Oil Stabilizer.

 

I've stuck with 5w-20 premium synthetic in my 2010 2.7l thru 98k miles. Here in PA we haven't even dipped below zero this winter (yet), but plenty mornings in single digits. My engine is a little noisy on those coldest mornings, but not actually knocking, and certainly not for 2 minutes. More of a general high engine clatter till the oil gets circulated - like 30-45 seconds. I know that Toyota recommended the 0w-20 some time after 2010, and most likely for the minimal better fuel economy. I would not be comfortable at that, especially in the even colder weather you experience. If I were you, I'd try 5w-20 next change and see if it doesn't smooth out those cold starts a little.

 

Hydrodynamic cushion? Do explain. You've peaked my interest!

 

You guys seem to be of the mindset that a thicker oil would help solve this issue. I thought having a thinner oil in extremely cold weather was ideal? From these posts it sounds as though I might be completely wrong.

 

I had a 1st gen that starting doing the same thing around 170k miles, I belive it was a stuck lifter but never had it diagnosed, it always went away once the engine warmed up for a couple of minutes.

Your 2013 says 0W-20 on the oil cap? My 2012 says 5W-30 on the cap and in the manual. What oil weight does your manual recommend?

Edit: nevermind I see you have a four cylinder.

 

0W-20 is recommend in the manual for my year. In previous years 5W-30 and 5W-20 have been recommended for the 2TRFE

 

Correct

 

So should I try 5W-30 next?

 

It would be impossible for it to be a stuck hydraulic lifter as the 1GR-FE 6 cylinder 4.0 Liter engine doesn't have any hydraulic lifters. It uses solid buckets.

The 4 cylinder 2TR-FE on the other hand does have hydraulic lifters.

 

0w-30, 5w-30. Either.

Does the 2TR have hydraulic lifter(buckets)? I'll take Jimmyh's word that they do. If so, they can go bad. Or at sometimes take a while to get oil pressure in them to operate properly. Causing a "knocking" sound.

I have an example of that, in a start-up video of my Bimmer. Took a while for the oil to fill the lifters after a head rebuild.

After a short period, the engine was nice an quiet. Relieving my stresses.

https://youtu.be/bls6M98X3RI

 

The 2.7 liter 2TR-FE has hydraulic lash adjusters.

The 3RZ 2.7 liter uses buckets and shims.

Here is the 2TR-FE:

 

Really sorry to hear about your mother's sudden death, my condolences go out to you and your family.

 

Don't really know what to make of this