2” Lift - Please steer a guy right

I’m hoping you all who have way, way more knowledge in this area than I do can sort of help me along here. I’ve been wanting to do a lift on my 2019 TRD Sport for sometime. Now that I have just rolled 64,000 miles on the truck I have some change saved up and need tires, thought this would be a good time to do a wheel/tire/Lift on the truck. This is my fourth Toyota truck but the only one I’ve actually seriously thought about doing a lift on.
So thing is, I know nothing about this. I need you all talk to me like I was a five-year-old. I would like to put 285/70/17 tires on the truck. Would a 2 inch lift be enough? If yes, how would I get there?
To start I was thinking about swapping out, shocks and putting Bilsten 5100s in the rear and 6112 upfront. What else should I be looking at in order to get these tires under my truck?
Thank you in advance for all of you who take the time out to help out and get me on the right path.

 

If I were to do it all over again I would do a much more minimal front lift 1-1.5" up front with a matching rear lift to maintain some rake.
Then just properly clearence the front fender well with a cab mount chop and pinchweld fold.
Doing it this way you maintain better cv angles saving your boots lowering the odds of phantom vibrations throughout the drive train.
I ran 285's with a 2-2.5" front lift depending on how much weight was on the roof at the time. No chop on +1 wheels for a year with no issues but alignment is key if you have any intention on wheeling the truck at all.

A 5100 or 6112 are great options just remember to include a leaf pack or add a leaf to bring up the rear aswell. A block is a fair option for a truck that is mainly street use.
Plan on a front diff clamshell bushing somewhere down the line as that needle bearing does not like the strain from a lift.

Wheel offset, staying around a +15-0 will make fitting the wider tires much easier any further into a negetive and you will start to find more rub points.

Expect your economy to tank I would suggest a tune around the same time or shortly after I wish i did mine far earlier.

 

I'm more than content with my 2" 5100 lift, and 1" rear block. No regrats...

But I will never, never go 285. Matter of fact, I'm going from my upsized 265s to an even taller 33" 255 soon.

 

Steering you right would be new front coilovers, rear shocks and leafpack.
Adjustable UCA's if you can swing it and swap the needle bearing with the ECGS clamshell bushing, while you're already in there.

On a 2019 you might want to start hitting those camber bolts with PB Blaster now.

 

I always forget to mention the damn cam bolts mine had to cut out and new LCA's and bolts installed.

 

Stick with 0 to +4 offset for your new wheels & go with 'pizza cutters' (255/80/17 - tall and skinny, vs fat) will let you put them on the truck with the least amount of effort.

If you stick with 285/70/17, they will be fatter and will more than likely rub. You can do some trimming and possible CMC (cab mount chop) to clear that up.


Bilstein 5100s all around or 6112s like you said are great. If you stay at 2", you can probably get away with stock UCAs, but aftermarket ones never hurt. For the rear, an AAL will suffice unless you want to drop money on a leaf pack.

Here's my 'budget' parts list suggestion:

JBA UCAs
5100s with OME 887 coils or equivalent 6112 setup
HeadStrong AAL in the rear with 5100s or 5160s
0 to +4 offset wheels
255/80 (or75)/17 tires

 

I went with this. Adjusted front lift to 1.5”, and got 1” lift at the back. Levelled the truck out. Recommended tire size with this lift is 285 70 17 (as per webpage below). This lift keeps CV angles factory.

https://bds-suspension.com/products...tacoma-05-20-4wd?_pos=24&_sid=b3d378206&_ss=r

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAYGdcKSA3o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_68Hc8GtLko&t=297s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1tTelhdEiM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wAJAOxh8LE

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-tacoma-lift-guide.509171/

 

This is what I did ,no vibes or problems and zip ended up with 3 inches of lift with the tall tires.

 

why do you need a lift?

 

That is a great question. I was thinking lift in order to get some bigger tires on it. The wheel that I’m going with is the 4Runner TRD pro
17-in. x 7-in. cast aluminum wheel

·11-mm. with 4-mm. wheel offset widens the overall vehicle track width by 0.9-in. (22 mm.)

 

That wheel is a great candidate for skinnies

 

why bigger tires?

 

Lift doesn’t clear bigger tires unless you won’t be using your suspension afterwards.

 

I’ve read from a member here that with a 2” lift on the Tacoma and those 17x7 +4 offset wheels with 275/70R17’s with NO RUBBING. I’ve got the bilstein 5100’s set on the top notch (2” in front and a 1” block in back.) I’m going to get the 17x7 +4 SEMA wheels, just can’t decide to go bronze or black.

 

Put some 255/80/17s on those wheels and run that for a while to see if the look fits what you want. The truck will sit about 1.5” higher off the ground with the larger tires alone.

 

Great suggestion. This works well for those looking for a lift without adding blocks or leaf springs.

 

So, if I went with these tires:

Falken Wildpeak A/T3W - LT255/80R17 E 118S

I would be able to get them on these wheels (4Runner Pro wheel) with NO (I.E. stock) lift?:

17-in. x 7-in. cast aluminum wheel
11-mm. with 4-mm. wheel offset

If that is indeed the case, then dang, I’m in. I think I’ll be OK driving on pavement (truck is my daily driver too) sacrificing the .4 of an inch in width.

 

That is correct. You’ll need an alignment and might need to trim some plastics but that’s it.

 

255/80r17 allegedly will not clear metal parts on a stock 4runner . . . can anyone confirm that? I would like to be able to bottom out and not womp my fender.