1st Gen Tacoma Rear Disc Brake Conversion

Are there any conversions worth doing? I know that with my front Tundra discs I calipers they're probably providing 80% of the braking force.
I know it may require the changing of the master cylinder. I know to be aware of piston size to not provide excessive stopping power in the back.
I'd be more inclined to use 4-runner parts or something, then to pay big money for a kit.

 

https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/full-floater-chunks-stock/


https://sosperformance.com/t/2000-2006-tundra

 

SOS Perfomance sosperrformance.com rear brake kit# TR-12.2-TU 2000-06 Toyota Tundra rear brake conversion. I'm running stock master cylinder. The parking brakes in the kit have to be modified to make them work.

 

What was your motivation to do this mod? Do you notice much difference in braking power? Do you also have the Tundra front discs?

 

I picked up the rear brake kit for half of the price the guy paid for it. He was here working from Thailand (American citizen married to girl in Thailand) Did a/c work in Arizona during summer. He purchased a bunch of items to take/ship back to Thailand. When he found out the tariffs and taxes he couldn't afford it. Sold everything to me for .50¢ on the dollar.

 

Yes Tundra front brake upgrade. I noticed an improvement in braking.

 

Are you noticing a lack of braking or brake holding power, or having issues with the rear brakes overheating? If not, I'd say not worth it. Especially with the front brakes doing the bulk of the work of stopping the truck.

 

No, I'm not experiencing a lack of braking or braking holding power. After seeing the cost of the options presented, I agree that it isn't worth it.

 

Have you considered deleting the load sensing proportioning valve under the bed and adding in a manual proportioning valve up at the master cylinder?

The LSPV is really kind of junk. There are quite a few YouTube vids explaining it.

 

https://trail-gear.com/tacoma-rear-disc-brake-kit.html - IMO don't think it's worth the price and headache. The shoe brakes are just fine.

 

Why upgrade to loose ebrake option. What a junk designed.

 

That's a solid point. My truck is 5-speed and I need the parking brake.

 

I have a "kit"(not installed yet) but it, uses stock 4th gen(120 chassis) 4runner brakes, and rear mustang cobra calipers. The Mustang calipers are used because they have a mechanical override for the e-brake. I had the brackets cnc laser cut at work outta ⅜plate. You have to cut the backing plate off the bearing hub assembly or not reinstal it if doing wheelbearings. You will get 3 longer bolts holding the hub flange on, and get a set of custom made brake lines that are metric to standard fittings to thread into calipers. Other than that it is a direct bolt up set up.

 

Rear disc conversion is a mod for those with more money than sense. Literally not worth doing.

 

My brakes are better with 42s than a buddy’s drum brake with 40s.

Don’t knock until you try.

 

You're part of the very, very few that might benefit from that, but it's still not worth doing. I bet with 13wl calipers your buddy's rig still stops perfectly fine.

 

Funny you mentioned 13wl as he is running a solid axle with Tundra brakes, 1” MC with dual diaphragm booster, ABS & LSPV delete w/ adjustable Wilwood value, and drum rear brake. For comparison, I’m running FJ80 front brakes, GX470 rear brake, 1” MC w/ dual diaphragm booster, ABS & LSPV delete w/ Wilwood adjustable valve and I’m much heavier than he is.

It’s near identical brake setup minus the tires, sprung weight, and rear brake. His 13wl rotors are 12.50” and my fj80 front rotor are 12.25” and rear GX470 rotor are 12.25”. My brake will lock with 42, his won’t with 40s. On steep drop, his Tacoma will slowly move downward with pedal to the floorboard, yes, drum properly adjusted. I can lock my brake on the same angle and path he was on and my truck will stay.

 

But I agree, doing it just because is pointless and costly. But if you’re upgrading for improved braking, yes. Just do it correct with functioning ebrake and not run the Trail Broken Gear setup or Fleabay/Book store conversion kit.

There’s many benefits with rear rotors vs drum but that’s for another discussion.

 

x2, also removing the abs module if you have it (has a built in internal bias that can't be altered) can help greatly with a whole vehicle brake proportioning system. Really helps add to the performance for rear disks.

13wls in the front, 4runner vented disk in the rear. Can stop and hold the truck in double low with 38s no problem.