1st Gen Skid Plates

Hello fellow 1st Gen. owners.
I'm on the fence between Budbuilt skid plates and Skid Row, still, lol argh. But this gives me time to save the money and do the research.
The Budbuilt site says this about the 3pc. combo from them, as far as the 3rd component it's a crossmember to support the transmission skid plate or bellypan. I just realized it's not a 1) front 2) transmission 3) t.case skid plate, but rather 2 plates and the belly pan covers the t.case.
From site:
1995.5-2004) Tacoma Replacement Crossmember, Lefty, Custom, or Conversion

***This product is not bolt on like most of our products. This is for our shop guy’s and girl’s that want to do some modifications.***

• Our rear crossmember is designed to support the back end of our transmission skid plate.
• This reinforced steel crossmember is no exception, providing sturdy support when you need it most.

So, trying to figure out to go w/the Skid row 1) front 2) transmission 3)t.case plates.
Or, the Budbuilt 1) front 2)belly pan/transmission skid plate, that uses a crossmember to support the rear end of the bellypan/transmission plate. This cross member is the 3rd component of the 3pc. set. so it's a front plate, and a big ass transmission plate. I've been told this plate is big and heavy and kind of hard to put on and take off, and am wondering if it's easier to do the Skid Row 3 pc set, which doesn't require install of the rear crossmember. Budbuilt site says some drilling required for this crossmember.
Any tips, much appreciated!
Brad in NM

 

Not sure what bst is, here on TW? I did see a guy named Ethan makes the front skids in stainless, bad-ass

 

10-4, thx bud

 

OP, what did you end up going with? I'm looking at skid plates for my 03 4x4 base.

 

Here's what the full set of budbuilts looks like off the truck


If memory serves, the rear crossmember (loose) bolts right up to existing threaded holes in the frame. The rear vertical support on the front skid uses the steering rack bolts. The skids weight about 60 lbs apiece, so they're annoying to deal with under the truck but nothing you can't put on yourself or with the help of a single jack/stand/block of wood.

Mounted, It's a really clean design, with recess bolt heads or carriage bolts so there's nothing to hang up, and it offers great protection.

 

Do you have to take the skid plate off to do an oil change?

 

Some aftermarket skids have a hole cut out where you can access the drain plug and let it drain through, but in my experience it usually results in a mess and it's just easier/cleaner to take it off.

 

Just get a Fumoto F103N valve. You can hook a hose up and drain directly into a catch pan.

 

This stays inside the protection of the skid plate right?

 

Yes, there's plenty of clearance between the oil pan and the skid, even with the valve installed. No change of it getting hit.

 

Well, unless you have the cutout beneath it and a branch or something finds its way in there. Probably not a likely scenario but still.

 

Awesome! I'm definitely getting one of these

 

that's a great idea!

 

I ended up going w/Budbuilt, and like them very much. I am kind of wondering how to access the fumoto oil drain valve I put on before I put the front skid on. I mean I see the hole for oil to drain, but seem unable to reach up in there to get at the drain valve.

 

I am kind of wondering how to access the fumoto oil drain valve I put on before I put the front skid on. I mean I see the hole for oil to drain, but seem unable to reach up in there to get at the drain valve.

 

I like how the front skid plate integrates w/the bumper. Budbuilt makes a good product I think.

 

I have yet to put the belly-pan plate on, along w/the rear cross-member. Any tips for the install location of the rear cross-member? In the instructions it just says 'now put it on', so it must be rather apparent, but just haven't gotten to it yet.

 

I seem to remember it being pretty obvious; there was only one spot for it to bolt up. You could always measure off the front bolts or the steering rack mount to get the exact location.

 

The belly pan cross member uses bolt holes that already exist on the frame, I seem to remember you have to undo a couple bolts from the e-brake bracket alongside the driver side frame rail and use those to bolt in that side of the cross member. There are good instructions on Budbilts website, that's what I used to install it.

I only had it on for a short time then took it off, I don't run trails where full belly protection is necessary...my Skidrow t-case skid is enough. The Budbilt belly pan is enormous and weighs you down significantly, not to mention it hinders your ability to perform maintenance under there with it on. Mines been collecting dust on the side of the house for years lol.

 

I know what you mean, it's big. But I'm gonna put it on sooner than later, and so I thank you for the info. I considered a Skidrow Transfer skid. I'll be running roads that warrant the belly-pan skid most likely here in NM.