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1st Gen How-To: Change your belts (P/S, A/C, Alternator) 2.4/2.7L

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by The Parts Whore, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. Jan 11, 2015 at 9:42 PM
    #61
    tacomatt602

    tacomatt602 Well-Known Member

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    Matt
    Phoenix, AZ
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    1997 5lug Regular Cab 2.4l
    Doetsch spindles, V6 coils, Fabtech AAL, 4Crawler 2" body lift, Daystar coil spacers, Bilstein 5100s (rear), 15x7 U.S. Wheel Stealth Stars, 225/70r15 Firestone Destination LE2s, '00-04 side mirrors, Prerunner/4x4 grille, Kobalt low-profile toolbox, fucked steering rack D:
    Thanks, good to know. I'll probably do the same.
     
  2. Mar 15, 2015 at 11:19 AM
    #62
    shortrdeod

    shortrdeod New Member

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    This saved me so much frustration, I can't thank you enough! Great details!:D:headbang:
     
  3. Mar 15, 2015 at 11:28 AM
    #63
    Racerzl1

    Racerzl1 Member

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    I just did all the belts on mine....Many thanks for this.
     
  4. Apr 6, 2015 at 4:26 PM
    #64
    brad2thebone

    brad2thebone New Member

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    I just did this on my 2.7L 1996 Taco. I used the Duralast parts that they gave me at Autozone as follows:

    350K5: Alternator
    343K4: A/C (packaging states "OLD NO. 342K4, agreeing with the OP")
    437K4: Power Steering

    Everything seems to work just fine.
     
  5. Apr 20, 2015 at 5:40 PM
    #65
    diyautoftw

    diyautoftw Member

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    Milwaukee, WI
    Nice job!
     
  6. May 13, 2015 at 5:03 AM
    #66
    Moco

    Moco Well-Known Member

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    Eric
    NoVA
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    Well, my A/C idler puller was shot and making a squeeking sound, I got a new pulley and also decided to throw on some new belts for good measure. For some unexplainable reason I decided to actually REMOVE the alternator pivot bolt. Oh man, what a nightmare that turned out to be! It took a lot of pounding and cajoling to line the alternator back up right to be able to slide the long bolt back in. Made a 30 minute job a couple of hour job.
     
  7. Jun 20, 2015 at 10:45 AM
    #67
    tnnotamechanic

    tnnotamechanic New Member

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    So I just did the belts on my 2004 Tacoma regular cab, 4x4 4 cyl. Even though I was not able to get either one of the torque wrenches I borrowed from Autozone to work, I think changing the belts was as easy as changing the oil. I didn't even need the wrenches. All I had were the sockets and the extensions. I also found a 1 inch extension came in handy on the uppermost pulley (the one tight up against the fan itself). The 3 inch extension was too long and without the 1 inch extension, too short. Still had to remove the fan shroud as mentioned but that was easy. One of the belts I used was different from what is in the original post. Instead of the 440K4, Autozone sold me a 437K4. I have no idea if I have the belts tensioned correctly. 1/4 to 1/2 flex to one person is probably different to another person. Like Hulk Hogan to a 99 lb. weakling. I'm going to check them again in a few days to make sure they haven't loosened up. Maybe get another opinion. As far as the torque goes, I'm gonna have to recheck that too. The first wrench I had broke and the second never popped at 20 lbs. I'm probably doing something wrong, but I sure can't figure out what seems to be basic. I even set the wrench to 20 lbs and found a nut on the bumper and put everything I had into it, and still no break/pop from the torque wrench. Glad I didn't pay over 100.00 to have someone else do this.
     
  8. Sep 25, 2015 at 7:03 AM
    #68
    O2Taco

    O2Taco New Member

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    I have a question on the alternator adjustment block. On mine the long bolt was missing. Is the hole in the adjustment block for the long bolt supposed to be threaded. The old one was not and the new one is not as well. The only threaded hole is for the mount at the top of the alternator. Thanks.
     
  9. Sep 25, 2015 at 2:35 PM
    #69
    Plugger812

    Plugger812 Member

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    So. NM
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    Hi Scott, Welcome! I just checked to make sure, my adjustment block is threaded for the long (adjustment) bolt. Good luck
     
  10. Oct 26, 2015 at 6:58 PM
    #70
    MainerDave19995VZ

    MainerDave19995VZ Well-Known Member

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    2nd generation 16" wheels with 1.25" BORA spacers
    Doing these three belts this week. Thanks for all the great posts!
     
  11. Nov 3, 2015 at 9:41 PM
    #71
    CantCme

    CantCme Member

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    How did it go MainerDave??? Im gonna get these done ASAP.

    If you have to loosen the idler pulley nut, does anyone know the specs for re tightening that bolt? If i missed it in the thread I apologize. Thanks guys!!!
     
  12. Nov 3, 2015 at 9:52 PM
    #72
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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  13. Nov 3, 2015 at 9:53 PM
    #73
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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  14. Nov 4, 2015 at 4:51 AM
    #74
    MainerDave19995VZ

    MainerDave19995VZ Well-Known Member

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    2nd generation 16" wheels with 1.25" BORA spacers
    Hey CantCme it went great! It took me a few minutes to get my arm and gear wrench position on the tensioner for the power steering figured out. Once you get turning that one just go at it for a few minutes because the more you back it off the easier the belt comes off (all the tensioners really). Every other nut and bolt is easy to see and reach. I did the skid plate off method. I had already taken the big plate and the transmission plate (two part skid plate) off recently so it drops off easy now! One belt was too big from the parts store so I lost some time getting that swapped out. Otherwise, all alone, first time through it was 2 very easy hours. I only backed off one nut on a pulley and it was the AC pulley. I just tightened it back up snug. No squeals on start up. Double checked tension a couple days in a row. Nice deflection on each belt. I assume I'll have to snug things up in a thousand miles. Double check your belt numbers from the parts store. The parts guy admitted he had pulled the wrong part. This youtube video was pretty helpful for locating bolts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8yF_gD-Mx0 I didn't' touch the fan or the airbox. I pulled one vac hose off the airbox to get it out of the way off my arm. Good Luck! Also, I'm on the wrong thread as I've got 6 cylinders!
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2015
  15. Nov 14, 2015 at 8:17 PM
    #75
    cj.ainsworth77

    cj.ainsworth77 Well-Known Member

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    ac idler pulley's been squeaking for about 2 weeks now, and today, i decided to go to o'reilly's and buy a new one, and go ahead and change all three belts...and wouldn't ya know it, on the way to my buddy's shop to do it, the squealing got super loud, then quiet, then i smelt burnt rubber...got to the shop, opened hood, and hey, damn pulley locked up and threw the ac belt...

    so, i changed the pulley(gates part, made in canadia, seemed pretty skookum), then changed the belts...the ac belt was a pain to get on to the comp even with all tension released...i wound up getting it started and then turned the motor over a few times till it went all the way around the ac comp, then i put some tension on it, installed the rest of the belts and ran it...had to put a bit more tension on the ac one, and took a bit off the ps one...

    and, btw, the ac belt don't go on the water pump...the water pump is ran with the same belt that runs the alternator

    and, there's really no need to remove the fan shroud...it's easy enough getting the belt in through the shroud and fan
     
  16. Nov 29, 2015 at 1:30 PM
    #76
    MainerDave19995VZ

    MainerDave19995VZ Well-Known Member

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    2nd generation 16" wheels with 1.25" BORA spacers
    I just worked on my cousins 2.7 litre 2001 4x4 and did the three belts among other things. It went pretty well. PB Blaster saved my bacon on this truck. More rust, more dirt, more over torqued bolts by previous owners/mechanics than on my truck. I think I'd say that the 3.4 and the 2.7 are about the same level of work when it comes to the belts. PB Blaster everything the night before if you can. Especially if it's rusty and you're not the last one to torque the bolts! We sprayed as much as we could and then changed the oil and the rear diff fluid before trying the bolts. It sure is nice working on someone else's truck and having a second set of hands! It took both of us to get the pivot bolt loose on the alternator!
     
  17. Feb 13, 2016 at 12:33 PM
    #77
    1985 4runner

    1985 4runner Member

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    Just finished this. Great write up, didn't need to loosen the fan shroud on my 2002 2.7

    O'Reilly Auto parts belts
    image.jpg
     
  18. Feb 28, 2016 at 3:07 PM
    #78
    itslogz

    itslogz Member

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    Just did this today on my 2.7. Really easy but do yourself a favor and pull the shroud so you got room to mess around, thats my preference anyway, spend a few more minutes preparing to make it that much easier. all together i maybe spent a hour to finish. I dont think the OP removed the shroud completely, but the 4 bolts and the bottom plastic piece off, and pop your top radiator hose off and it slides right out, gives you more than enough room to comfortably work
     
  19. Apr 10, 2016 at 2:47 PM
    #79
    Northern Taco

    Northern Taco Well-Known Member

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    Changed out my 2 idler pulleys (AC and PS). The lower AC pulley can easily be accessed with a couple of long extensions reaching the adjuster bolt from under the truck. I didn't remove the skid plate, as I did that a few weeks ago when changing the front diff fluid, and it was a PITA.

    lay in front of the passengers front tire and look up, you'll see the bolt I'm talking about.
     
  20. Jun 30, 2016 at 12:03 AM
    #80
    jbrumbelow

    jbrumbelow Member

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    I need help changing the belts on my 99 Tacoma 2.7 pre runner. It looks like there are 3 belts total. I was told that I needed to change the serpentine belt and another one. They all look pretty rough to me. I would like to do this myself and not spend the $200 they want, but I'm not very experienced. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     

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