1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

What is the reasoning behind reducing the gap?

 

Do you know anything about being able to set edge rejection in the crank position sensor section on the haltech? We don't see an option for setting this.

 

I got it to get as far as 5k right now, and I know the haltech has a built in o-scope function for sensors and I'm tryin to figure out how to read that, I think I still have the arming voltage too high or I need some edge rejection

 

Not that I am aware of. There is a filter for EMF noise that you can setup. Not sure if that will help

 

I am using the ESP software. NSP might have that function.

 

People say it is to keep the boost from “blowing out the spark”. Personally I think thats bullshit and the gap needs to be reduced simply because the a/f is more dense

 

I did find that it is adjustable in ESP. Default is disabled set to 20 https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/trigger-elite

 

Boosted air blowing out spark I believe at high rpm’s

 

Yes crankshaft sensor is OEM new,
Mine throws a light at 5100 every time.
NSP ECU V3.03.10 RELEASE
code is p1301 trigger reference error.
Gap was .030 going to try .026 now,
Trigger voltage 0.40 to 1.00

 

3 issues still to resolve for mine

1.check engine light flickering from time to time

2. i’m cutting out at about 5000 RPMs before shift.

3. I’m still smelling gas I’ve had Gabe adjust my canister twice

I have replaced my Crankshaft sensor
Gabe found a problem with my voltage.
A large voltage drop above 4700 RPMs

I removed my aftermarket coils and they were corroded as hell

I replaced them with OEM coils.

That helped the problem significantly

however I still have a cut off at the top end

gabe suggested that I go through my wiring to my alternator in my all my grounds since I have a big three upgrade for a car stereo.

I am also considering going back to the OEM spark plug wires.

thoughts?

 

Is your MIL flashing?

Fuel smell could be from a number of things. I am not current on the supercharger setups, is there a check valve inline with the canister?

What with your coils was corroded? Connectors or spark plug wires?
There is the possibility that the ignition system has issues, and not the trigger system. Whether it be worn components like spark plugs, wires, etc. or that the system simply can’t keep up with the demand at high rpm. A compressed environment is more dense, and the spark formation is harder to achieve. That is why the spark plug gap is typically reduced to avoid misfire

 

Are you seeing any codes in the Haltech software? Is the Haltech set to manage the Check Engine Light?

With the auto we are not a true standalone configuration. The OEM ECU is still being used by the truck. It is an odd mix of computer control.

As an example, on mine the check engine light only activates for Haltech error codes. I do get error codes from the OEM ECU that are displayed by the scangauge connected to the OBDII port (for example: p0170 & p0505) because the OEM ECU does not realize the Haltech is managing those systems. But on mine those codes do not trigger the CEL. The CEL and OBDII port are normally seeing the same data. But this is no longer the case with our piggyback configuration.

So in reference to item #1, on your truck do you know if the CEL is being managed by the Haltech? Do you use a scangauge or an ultragauge?

For item #2, This is where I'm at too. The Haltech starts to cut back on timing or fuel or possibly both at just under 5K RPMs and has on occasion thrown both p1300 & p1301 codes. These are Haltech codes, not Toyota codes. Haltech defines them different from Toyota. On mine the RPM limit was lower than that but playing around with the crank sensor arming voltages made some improvements to that.

When you replaced your crankshaft sensor did you replace with an OEM part or aftermarket? I replaced mine with a Denso unit but wonder if I should have gone OEM.

Item #3, I have not smelled any unburned fuel. But the exhaust smell is definitely more pungent. Especially since both OEM CATs have been replaced by a single high flow Magnaflow CAT.

 

#3
There is a setting to adjust the EVAP configuration and it takes some adjustments especially when it's 100 degrees outside.
This adjustment will be trial and error.
This adjustment is more than likely what needs to be done and the gas smell is coming from Charcoal can,
Typically you will smell it if the canister is
in the engine bay like 95-96-97 tacoma

 

Been playing with making cold start snappier, trying to get it so it is extremely quick from first key turn.

 

I've always wondered why it takes longer to start the engine with the Haltech. Is that true for all standalone/ppiggyback/non-OEM management systems?

 

Just not an ideal startup tune, either too much intake/cylinder wetting or not enough and sometimes they take a second to pickup on the RPM signal and get in sync before trying to fire. You can make them snappy though

 

Mine starts immediately,
Zero delay,
So not true on my setup.
I do hear the fuel pump if I turn the key to the ACC for 3 seconds or something and then stops

 

Yeah, I think the fuel pump priming the system is seperate from this. I was referring to the time the starter motor is cranking over.

 

can you link where you purchased your 170F t-stat?

 

NO delay

https://youtube.com/shorts/5ksdF4PceGs?feature=share