1GR-FE Valve Cover Torque Sequence

Been searching around quite a bit and can't seem to find any information on the order in which the valve cover nuts and bolts on the 1GR-FE should be torqued. Every valve cover gasket job I've done has a sequence, surely Toyota has one as well. If anybody has this information it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

I don't see a sequence.

 

I might even tighten it with hand feel. "Gutentight" torque spec from calibrated forearm
though with a good quality torque wrench my double-check by hand at the end doesn't really feel the need to exceed what spec it goes to, so that works too
reminds me I need to find a good 1/4 inch pounds/nm torque wrench to buy.
The Harbor Freight one is cheap but I hear the click is really hard to hear and feel, making it kind of useless.

and small bolts/gaskets are usually inch pounds

I think with exhaust gaskets they tell you to start from the inside, gradually working your way out, in a star/criss-cross pattern.
And with transmission gaskets I think some car companies may also recommend a final go around 1-by-1 (after the star pattern) to verify torque spec.
Maybe some of these methods will work

I hope it's not too critical, because at the end of the day it's still a new gasket replacing an old one that's been squished over the years

What's this from?

 

TIS from Toyota

 

Thanks guys, I should have noted that I have the FSM and there is no mention of any sequence. As said I just find that hard to believe as it seems every other car manufacture has a order they see fit. Guess thats why I'm not an engineer...

 

When in doubt go in a rotating cross pattern to torque value. Then go around in a circle pattern to torque value.

For these small bolts I don't use a torque wrench. I go to snug in a cross pattern then around again snug enough to feel the gasket squeeze. I see too many people break them trying to get to the rated torque.

 

Sorry to revive an old thread fellas, but wanted some input on this. I'll be changing my valve cover gaskets this coming week.

Would the below tightening sequence be adequate?

 

I usually start in the middle and work my way out.
I try not tighten any 2 bolt on the same “side” right after each other.
But that doesn’t always work out.
Tight a bolt on one side, go to the other side.


The important part is to use sealant on the area where the head/block/Timing cover meet.
There is a better example here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-torque-specs.291275/#post-7307109

I do agree with JimmyH, take it easy on the bolts.
Probably best to go by feel. I’d rather tighten them up later, than to break them off now.

Your Sequence will probably be fine.
The sealer is most important.

 

Thanks TnShooter, I'll take easy in slow steps. This is the 3rd valve cover I've done on a vehicle, but a first with no tightening sequence. So that made me a little nervous. Didnt want to jack thing's up.

I'll be sure to use the sealer. Got some permatex ultra black sealer. The toyota stuff is pricey for how little of it I'd need.

 

I always if possible use a cross sequence and get everything good and snug.
Then make a second pass and go around circular and finalize. Most of the time after the first cross pattern you will find the first bolts you started with will not be as tight as they were.

 

Me too. Kind of similar to the way you torque lugs in a pattern.
Once you do it enough, you kind of “know”.

I thought regular Torquing was “tedious”
Then I got introduced to TTY.

 

+1 TTY everything these days.

 

Dont forget the "seal packing" (some RTV) to bridge the gaps between head and front cover.

 

Did my valve cover gaskets, along with intake plenum and throttle body gaskets while I was at it. Things made a lot more sense as I was reinstalling the valve covers. No leaks so far. Using the felpro gaskets was nice, in that they are blue and made double checking stuff easier.

 

What are the size of the valve cover bolts after removing my cold air intake I am missing the very forward one on the passenger side. Just not sure what size to get.

 

My guess is an m6x1.0 : 25mm length.

I’m not at all sure on this, but I’m pretty sure the bolt head uses a 10mm socket.
Most 10mm head bolt bolts are M6.
The most common M6 thread pitch is 1.0.
And the length is given in the FSM.