1998 2.7L problems and fixes

So since i had started a few threads on here and had more problems come up as i try to fix the origional ones, i thought i would start a working blog per say of what i am doing to my truck so i can get some pointers, help, and inform others if they have the same problem later.

background, i have a 1998 tacoma, 2.7L 4x4 regular cab. It has about 220k on it. i got her with about 90k in early 2004, so its been a great run so far. 2 batters, 1 alternater, 2 starters, a few belts here and there, a harmonic balancer at some point, some o2 sensors to pass inspection in NJ at the time, a new muffler to pass inspection in MD, and brakes as needed. not bad in my opinion, but im just a simple engineer, what do i know.

so, about 6 months ago i notice that in 3/4 gear my clutch wasnt catching as it should and not giving me the grab that i was used to. it didnt happen all the time and i just adjusted to not being a dumb $%% while driving. pretty sure it just got worse and i was in denial with the whole thing. also, i was hoping for a wind fall of money some how for a new truck. well coming back from NJ over the delware bridge i started smelling something and noticed i was in 5th gear doing 45 with no go whats so every.... long store short the clutch totally when on me and 3/4/5 gear arent worth a damn now. 1/2 arent all that great. i need to get soem RPMs going just to get the cltuch to catch. so after talking to some buddies at work that do hobby shop stuff, pricing out at rock auto, i say wtf; i love the truck, and buy a new clutch kit, flywheel, master and slave cyndlier. i figured do the whole thing as i dont know what caused what and well none of it had been replaced as i owed it and good chance not at all. so it was time to do them. so issue one i need done.

now to issue two (biggest of the 4 so far, more to those in a few). about 5 or 7 days into the clutch not really working that well i am leaving my second job and notice a "click, click, click" as the car is just ideling. i am thinking something with cluthc..... so i move about 4 parking rows with now p/s. stop the truck, turn off, and look at fluid (i have issues which we will get to). toped off and well keep going. about 2 blocks later the p/s kicks in after a hard left turn. about 1/2 mile later oil light starts to flicker (uh oh).... about 1/2 mile later it stays on and battery light starts flashing (OH %^&$) 1/2 later and 3 blocks from home it stays on... i turn off the truck and coast home.... TY GOD!!! open hood and i can hear the coolant boiling, but temp light never went above half way...i start the truck next day in light and the cracnkshaft pully (all 3) arent spinning (%^$@#$%^^&) so either timing chain or balancer f'ed up.. well truck runs fine so its the balancer. so those are the main ones i thought i would have to deal with, back the truck into my just cleaned garage. i guy a few needed tools (torque wrech, flywheel holder, gloves, and some sockets) and start to work.

so now to nagging issues that are now problems 3 and 4... i have been slower leaking P/S fluid since late 2011... i know, know... but not bad until last few months.... also, i thought i was just burning a quart of oil ever 3k the last year or so, but now its about ever month i need it for about 6 months. since i am taking off the plates under the engine i figure lets take a closer look and what i can fix or not....

after cleaning the P/S lines, it was noticable after a day where its leaking and what i made worse O ).. the front P/S cooler line (from the rack on the drive side, goes through the modled line and to the P/S pump) has a crack in it. so no JB weld (buddies idea) and no junk yard around. so i rock auto for some parts maybe (more on that too and problem 3...)


so problem 4....so oil leaking...which i though was the PCV valve as i never replaced it yet and all seals look to be coated with something so i figured that might be it. i need to replace it anywas so i will... but after cleaning the oil pan for several days, taking a few pictures, and well stupidly poking what could be a rust spot i had the pan spot oil right at me..... so the oil pan has oxidized and eating from the inside out or something like that. it looks so bad that i am suprised it hasnt gone already. so all this could be good luck.... bad news is i need to replace it (more on that too)...

so to conclude the intro..

1. replace clutch, fly wheel, master, and clave cyndler.
2. replace harmonic balancer (hope thats it)
3. Replace exsisting P/S cooler line with after market one
4. Replace oil pan and seal with new one

more to follow as i am already into 2 and need help/suggestions on 4.

 

So to follow this... I need a new oil pan and seal and from what i have seen and read you have to drop the front diff to do this.... IS THIS TRUE?? any other way around this... this is my show stopper right now besides #2, which i will post about shortly. i not that i cant do this... but i already have ALOT to do on this truck with little time on my hands to work on it... any and all help on this would be helpful.

 

I have heard that the sealer on the oil pan is a bear to remove and you will have a time trying to separate the pan from the engine.

you should find out from those who did it, how to do this and what tricks might make that job easier.

 

i have heard and read the same thing... waiting on some replys before i tackle this... writing up issue #2 now... most pressing and important one right now as if that one isnt fixed, engine wont work either....

 

On to the harmonic balancer (problem 2).... so I suspected that this is whatfailed, but won’t know for sure until I get the 3 belts off. So I loosened thenalternator, P/S tension pulley, and so I thought the A/C tension pulley...Snap! so I need a new pivot bolt now for A/C tension (hardware store here Icome).... after I get all the belts off I go and grab the main pulley assembleand I can spin it a bit and it wobbles in my hand... so yes it failed and now I’mscared &*^%less that it’s that bad. Had a hell of a time trying to get thebolt off too but final after pulling the truck in gear to lock the flywheel I manageto turn the bolt a bit so it’s broken free from the 200lbs of torque (so I think)….I continue to turn with a 2ft breaker bar about ½ inches and still feels likethis bolt is torque’d on…. I haven’t taken the radiator out or anything else becauseI figured I would try the poor man’s way first… so I spray the bolt down withPB blast and let it sit for a day, I repeat the same thing for 3 days just tomake sure and on the third day I suck the bolt back in to see if it’s justrusted on… well not sure if this did the trick or not but got it out without removinganything (YET!) and not using an air compressed torque wrench so not to mess upthe bolt (to late).

So I get the bolt out to only see it shot to hell from a thread stand point(see photo). Not sure why yet, maybe me withthe breaker bar. So the balance slidesout and it’s not only busted on the back end (see photos) but no key (%#$%%^$). At this point I know I need to start takingthings out to get more room in there. SoI drain my baby of fluids (needs a changing for both anyways) and I need to seewhat I can do to fix problem 4. I take out the radiator and I got the needclearance to see inside the oil pump and cam shaft. Well inside the bolt thread is full of driedrust (so I think, see photo) and well I see the parts of the balance that brokeof (sort of good I guess). But no key,so I guess it snapped loose???

So I sort of solved the problem to a point in my mind, but have someadditional questions for here….

1. Balance failed, got new one with key. There are two slots on that cam, do I use thetop one or bottom one?

2. Do I need to time/do anything to this balance relatingto timing of engine (don’t think so)?

3. So at this point I’m worried that the oil pump could bef’ed to since that’s in where this thing chipped (see photos), should I just goahead and pull the oil pump, water pump, and timing chain covers off andreplace with a full set? Or just the oil pump?

Any help on this one as it gets more complex as I get into this issue.Thanks, see photos… Gimp

 

So to problem 4 again… the bottom of the pan (see photo)keeps getting little oil drips on it, I can wipe off every 2 hours and morekeeps coming. The seal is dirty, but notdripping nor from anywhere else on the block. So this leads me to believe that the pan is shot. Also, when I touch the parts in the photothat look rusted it has oil behind it and spits at me lol. So as I was draining the coolant for issue 2,I did the oil. If it doesn’t leakanymore then I believe it’s the pan and well it looks like hell so should be replacedfor peace of mind anyways. Especial if Ido the pump as well. So I read the Chilton manual and it states nothing about removingthe diff for the 2.7l, only the 5rz model. So I am going to attempt to jack the truck up on to stands and go fromthere. Any suggestions, prayers, pointersbefore I go do this? Also, when I doreplace this (depending on issue #2) FIPS or gaskets (see other thread). Gimp

 

So to problem #3, which I think, is the only thing solvedright now. See photo of issue, I haveanother thread that I think solved my fix, if you want to call it that. I am going to get one of the two from here:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1317623,parttype,11350,a,Search%2Bfor%2B1998%2BTOYOTA%2BTACOMA%2B2.7L%2BL4%2BEmission%2BPCV%2BValve

I will take a photo of the place I will be mounting it when I’mworking on the truck tomorrow. If yougot concerns, please let me know. I thinkthis is a good, cheaper, workable alternative then trying to bend somethingmyself or paying an arm and leg for a place to bend something for me. Gimp

 

just soem other pics of me working on the truck....

 

So as i stated, i am solving my #3 issue with a new cooler.... this right here (as you can see in the pick where the old line picks up the flex tub... thought i could put it just below the battery.... nice spot...

 

So another thought keeps running through my mind.... I havent worked on the truck for 2 days and well i keep thinking about the metal parts still where the old harmonic balancer was... not to easy to get at and i am hoping the oil pump is ok or maybe even the cause of this... sooooo whats the thoughts on just replacing the oil pump, water pump, and timing cover to be safe on this all? it hasnt been done while i have owned the truck and thats 135k and 10+ years... also the thermostate? never been done as long as i owened as well... better to be safe then sorry? i need to replace the oil pan too, so would go along with it right?

also, i think i can jack the truck up, loosen the front Diff and drop it slightly with out taking it ALL the way out and off and still get enought clearance to get the pan out... or its just late and i am crazy... suggestions would help. Gimp.

 

I would replace the oil seal where the HB fits. it looks bad. I would also do an oil change after all is fixed. you should be OK then.

 

your thinking is correct, do it all while you have it that far so its a complete renew of everything that could be worn out or soon to be the next failure. its never wasted money to do preventive repairs and often saves you money in the long run.

 

to everyone up to date on this... going to spend the cash on the oil pan/seal (issue 4), going to spend the cash on the p/s cooler (issue 3), and to make sure i havent screwed myself becuase of issue #2, replace the oil pump, water pump, timing chain cover, all the seals that go along with that, the thermostate and the seals there.... should be good for her... that beign said, i am also thinking about the fuel filter which hasbt been done while i owned it since i am there, and well the rotors as they are almost shot since i have her in a dry and sorta warm place...

i was going to sell her once i was done with this for what i put into her... but having second thoughts now.... been good to me and well after all of this i may have a primary vehicle thanks to my parents so a new toy to play with... is it worth lifting her at this point, just to make it look good, help with fishing and hunting with her? if not, what size tires can i get away with with a stock 1998 4x4 2.7l standard cab, 6 lug 15 rime....

 

see list... long story short, since its cheaper to get some of the parts in this kit... should i replace all the others.... just asking...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-04-Toyot...RZFE-New-/360626948696?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

gimp

 

I'm probably going to be replacing the front seal soon, so I'm interested in your progress. The pics you posted are interesting. It looks like the harmonic balancer extends back over the crankshaft more than in other engines...maybe because these have a timing chain. Am I seeing it correct, the balancer is what is in contact with the front seal, not the crankshaft itself?

I've read elsewhere that the screws holding the oil pump on can be hard to get off. You need to use an impact screwdriver or risk stripping them. They may be more likely to strip if you use a philips head screwdriver and they are JIS screws, which most Toyotas use.

Good luck with it.

 

I am assuming so, but most like i will be replace the timing cover as well, i will post some pics for you as well... but if you google these parts, they are thick and the balanace needs to be big enough to get in there. its one of the reasons why i want to take everythign off with the way it spilt. i want to make sure everything is still A O K!

first time i am hearing about the oil pump screws. i can tell you this, the crank shaft pull (harmonic balancer) screw is a B^%$H to get off....

 

ok, one more stupid question and i think i am read to to finsih what i started on #2,3, and 4 issues.... if i plan on replacing the oil pump and water pump... do i need to replace the timing chain cover? i asked beceause its hard getting a whole kit that doesnt include parts that i dont plan on doing (like the chain, etc). so why would i WANT to replace the cover? will be working on her wed/thurs. hope to have the pumps off, pan out, and well after that i not sure if ill wait for the parts or start taking out the clutch.... alot to do... alot to do with no time...

only bright spot now, my mom has an older sable (sigh) that they dont need any more that runs so i can use that now and give the van back to the wife ( ).... so i am not to pressed now on time with getting her on the road asap... so just looking to do this right, most cost effectively and efficenantly as possible.
Gimp

 

let me just say that while it looks like you can save money buying complete kits like that, they are often using low grade china crap parts of bad quality that wont last and the same for cheap flimsy gaskets that may start leaking on you.

im not saying don't get a kit for such things, just be damn sure they are kits with "quality" reliable parts and gaskets so you aren't redoing all that work again next year.

in most cases its best to buy gaskets in name brand gasket kits and get the actual mechanical parts separately so you know what you are getting

 

understood and i plan on doing that with ALL gaskets.... i am just not sure if i NEED to replace the timing chain cover as part of this... will take off the pumps tomorrow and post some pictures, hopefull all is a ok and i can move on once i have all the parts in about 4 days... then i just have to worry about problem 1... again, more to come and show... thanks for all the help so far. Cheers.... Gimp

 

The repair manual says to take the timing chain cover off you need to take the cylinder head off also, so I don't think you want to do that. The timing chain cover is sandwiched between the oil pan and cylinder head. You can take the oil pump and water pump off without removing the timing chain cover. The repair manual says to take the timing chain cover off to take the oil pump off, but I don't think it's necessary. You can remove the oil pump with the timing chain cover in place.