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1997 Tacoma clutch problems

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Tylercordell34, Jan 22, 2020.

  1. Jan 22, 2020 at 6:12 PM
    #1
    Tylercordell34

    Tylercordell34 [OP] New Member

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    I just put a new clutch in my truck and new throw out bearing and I got it back together and it was driving good for two day’s and then it was acting like the clutch was still engaged even with the pedal all the way down so I really don’t know what it is. Anything would help thanks in advance 8BEEC9E6-8978-4D1F-A3F7-B2EC09490979.jpg
     
  2. Jan 23, 2020 at 7:10 AM
    #2
    Russianman92

    Russianman92 Well-Known Member

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    You mess with master/slave cylinder? Make sure that's bled.

    use your hand on the clutch fork and see if it is loose or anything.
     
    Trogdortaco likes this.
  3. Jan 23, 2020 at 8:32 AM
    #3
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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  4. Jan 23, 2020 at 8:44 AM
    #4
    homegrown_xt

    homegrown_xt Well-Known Member

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    That happened to me on my old Toyota Pickup and it turned out to be the pilot bearing. Did you change yours out?
     
  5. Jan 23, 2020 at 9:07 AM
    #5
    Tylercordell34

    Tylercordell34 [OP] New Member

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  6. Jan 23, 2020 at 12:03 PM
    #6
    homegrown_xt

    homegrown_xt Well-Known Member

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    Something is still making a mechanical connection, do you hear any squealing and when you push the clutch in are the gears grinding?
     
  7. Jan 23, 2020 at 12:21 PM
    #7
    2JHilux

    2JHilux Level 8 Tinkerer

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    see if the fork is moving down below with the pedal. if it feels like its mostly all working but just not enough travel to fully disengage there is an adjustment on the clutch pedal rod from the master cylinder.
    When I did my 5 spd swap I had to adjust it to get it just right, and did end up adjusting in a little more travel after a week or so and now its good.
    I would first make sure that it is bled right since you had it working before and can do similar, but if someone had adjusted the rod when the clutch was worn it might not have enough travel to reliably disengage a new clutch all the way (you notice this when your engagement is right on the floor vs an inch or so up from the floor where it should be).

    If things aren't moving below at all or very much, you could have had the master or slave cylinders go bad (or needs to be bled).
    I have had a master go out before on a sc300 where clutch pedal wouldn't move the fork very much at all, and the system was bled.
    Replaced the slave since its much easier and re bled, did the same.
    Changed the master and rebled and all was good after that.
     
    Gyrkin and underaroof like this.
  8. Jan 23, 2020 at 6:31 PM
    #8
    Tantoy

    Tantoy New Member

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    Having same trouble with my recent clutch replacement:popcorn: Marlin crawler with new flywheel. Something must still giving friction to the input shaft and spinning it. Feels like trans syncros are bad when shifting? Replaced rubber ling about a week ago. Napa about 22.00.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2020
  9. Jan 23, 2020 at 6:57 PM
    #9
    Tour991

    Tour991 Supplier of used parts

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    I'm having the same issue after I changed my clutch last fall. I 1st adjusted the small fork on the pedal. It helped a little bit. So then I changed the slave cylinder and re bled it. That didn't help.
    I found that if it locked up and I can't shift it in and out of gear when the motor is running i turned the motor of put it in 1st gear, started it up and then popped the clutch and then let it stall. This seams to make it work as normal for a day or two.
    Monday I was backing in my driveway and the clutch peddle went to the floor. Turns out I have a hole in the 8 inch long soft line between the slave and master. I doubt that this is what's causing the sticking but just another problem.
    Next week I'll dig into it more and keep everyone posted.
    IMG_20191230_073026.jpg
     
  10. Jan 24, 2020 at 11:12 AM
    #10
    2JHilux

    2JHilux Level 8 Tinkerer

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    sounds like it is not getting enough travel, all those problems kind of show up as the same thing happening though.

    If the car has alot of miles, it is probably the master starting to go out, the piston wears and the fluid just moves around in the master and the worse it gets the less the fork moves until one day the pedal falls to the floor.
    The slave cylinder can do the same thing and is usually super cheap and easy to replace so just replace it to rule it out when having those issues.
    I usually do in order: full bleed to get all new fluid in there, then replace slave and rebleed, then replace master and rebleed (do this last cause it's a pain). if that doesn't work after that then something else is wrong with the actual clutch etc..
     
  11. Jan 24, 2020 at 11:22 AM
    #11
    Justinogo

    Justinogo Well-Known Member

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    Had this happen a few weeks ago on my 3rz swap. My master cyl was rusted and letting air into the system. New master fixed it, easy peasy
     
  12. Jan 24, 2020 at 11:28 AM
    #12
    2JHilux

    2JHilux Level 8 Tinkerer

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    manual swap in progress
    If you have time to wait, order and use the firewall reinforcement piece for the master cylinder.
    I have heard it can help prevent stress cracks far down the line, I put it in when I did my 5spd conversion.
    $11 bucks online part number 55113-34010

    Also check your clutch pedal brackets, they are known to crack, and can cause a similar feeling like its not disengaged.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2020

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