1996, 2.7l 3rz oil pump leak - what else should I do while in there?

So, I originally posted this to an older thread from last year. I hadn't seen any responses, so I thought I'd try making a new thread.... My front main seal and / or pump cover seal have been dripping for a long time. The drip turned into a drip drip, and is not drippity drip drip... I promised myself I wouldn't dig into this truck when it decided to fail me, but I may have lied to myself since now I'm thinking I should fix the truck (used everything is crazy expensive). I bought this truck (96, 2.7L, 3rz, 4x4) used when it was 5 years old (2001). It was my wife's daily driver, and commuted long distance twice a week back in the day. It has spent the past 10 years as my hunting rig, and though I 've maintained it, it hasn't seen the love of my 2001, 3.4L, V6. Anyway, I am now contemplating doing the seals, but was wondering what else I "should" do while in there. Replacement includes for sure the oil pump & seal, front main seal, but should I do the water pump and related seals, oil pan gasket?, timing chain? Anything else? I know the truck hasn't had any major work before or during my ownership. The oil pump and water pump are original. The truck has 292k miles, so though I want to keep it running, I don't want to sink a ton of money into it. But it is better than a quad while hunting, and my son will need to learn to drive in 2 more years. It's my understanding that the timing chain(s) are zero interference (though I'm now reading that might be false) and I've never heard it make any noise, so I'm not sure if I need to do it, or if I'm a fool not to while I'm opening things up. Thanks for an advice.

 

Another questions, OEM parts (aside from the pump seal cover bolts) or non OEM? Thanks

 

I would recommend the water pump as well while you're in there. Plus inspect and possibly replace harmonic balancer depending on condition when you remove it to get to the oil pump. The oil pan gasket is a major PITA cause you can't drop the pan out of there without dropping the front diff so I'd avoid it if its not actively leaking. Inspect all pulley bearings and every spinny thing for wear or resistance and replace them as needed. However if it were my truck and I didn't know the last time they got changed, I'd replace them all due to the age.

Given the miles you say are on it I'd check amd adjust the valve shims before worrying about timing chain. When I rebuilt my motor with 219k on it the timing chain was fine (still replaced it anyway) but the valves were so tight cyl 1 exhaust valve was burnt to shit. That's the major weak link with these 3rz motors, the valvetrain. Technically toyota wants you to inspect the valves every 35k and adjust as needed.


I used Napa brand stuff on all the parts I changed (except fuel injectors cups and orings, those were OEM) and I haven't had any issues for 20k miles in 3 years

 

You've probably stumbled across this, but I found it useful

 

Thanks for those responses!