$1300 quote replace U-JOINTS and Carrier bearing

Dealer would be less in this case

 

Most shops use a labor /repair software program that uses flat rate estimation . this is why labor $$ is so expensive and why it was 1/2 hr to remove one u joint . it may have only taken the tech 15 min but the labor estimation software doesn't go that low

The two most well known programs are from Mitchell or Captera

 

Correct. Shops that can get folks to pay the flat rate book price will do it. And they get a lot of business. Shops that want to be competitive will charge a portion of the flat rate book price.

 

50$+ for a ujoint, that's bullshit. How do they charge you parts to install a driveshaft? Seriously you can invest in a shop press and still be 1000$ cheaper

 

This. Seems like the service writer keyed in the wrong item in the estimate.

Probably brake-related rather than driveshaft related...

 

If you look line by line and compare it to what the OP describes as needing they are two different things. From his original post I was reading a couple of u joints and carrier bearing on the rear shaft. Now if he isn't mechanically inclined enough to understand what he is being quoted or what he is asking a quote of there is nothing none can do.

I am not trying to be a Richard but I see it all the time with my wife's family. Between my mother in law and brother in law they have zero mechanical ability between the two of them. I am not sure if they can hang a picture. So I get asked for my opinion on something then am told I don't know what I am talking about because they were quoted 1/2 of what I said the job is worth. When things don't go to plan I get called again and I have to explain why there is an issue and get blasted for not explaining it to them in the first place. They finally have stopped doing renovations with the fireman / renovation expert 2 doors down because he claims he is using premium materials and then they learn later he is using the same budget stuff every other chiseler is using. But he has always been cheaper and now they are learning why.

My advice to the OP is to find a mechanic you respect and trust and pay whatever he charges and don't nickel and dime him. Until you know better about things mechanical your biggest liability is yourself. You really don't know the difference between 2 quotes other than the price at the end. A mechanic you have a good relationship with will charge a fair price and often will explain why it costs X. I hope you can see what I am saying and not just see the criticism.

 

A squeal in reverse sounds unusual to me from a u-joint or carrier bearing if it doesn't also squeal going forward. Did you or the shop isolated the problem to a u-joint or CB? I would first suspect a brake shoe, then a brake pad, then a wheel bearing, then the u-joints or carrier bearing.

 

Did pepboys say they'll include a bottle of astroglide for you to use?

 

3 to 4 hundred is what I paid for 3 u joints and carrier bearing to get done at a shop NOT dealer. U can get cheaper u joints but I would suggest oem Center carrier bearing.

 

I thought I saw people on here getting a whole 1 piece driveshaft made for 500 bucks. I'll press those ujoints out for 300 bucks. Hell you bring the party favors and I'll teach you how to do it yourself.

 

Honestly, this isn't a major repair by any means. There's a few mistakes that can be made while doing this repair but the parts can be had for cheap (even quality parts). I would either take it to a drivetrain shop or partner with someone on the forum and enjoy learning how to fix your truck for nearly no money.

 

When I had all mine done it was about 250. The carrier bearing is kinda of expensive.

 

Carrier bearing is $60

 

$108.38 for an "Extended Labor Warranty"! WTF is that. Shops like this will find anything and everything they can charge you for. I'm surprised theres no disposal fees for everything they replace.

 

Mine was about 90.

 

Got a second opinion, thanks for the info guys. Def no way I'm paying 1k when parts are like $200

 

https://youtu.be/8VQQdrUi9wA

I skimmed the video but didn't watch it all. U-joints are super easy to do. I have the u joint press which is similar to a ball joint press but usually use a vice, socket and hammer method. At work I do u-joints that are 12" across the caps and we basically do the same methods just with bigger tools and sometimes a hydraulic press.

One thing to remember is the grease in them is for storage mostly. Coat the insides of the cap with fresh grease and if you have zerks grease them after assembly. Once you do 3-4 joints you will have figured it out completely and will know 95% of everything you could ever need to know on the subject.

 

Eric is a freakin idiot. "It's a, uh, pretty loose yoke here". Yeah, since you ground it out with a die grinder. LOL

 

Can you find a better video instead of simply focusing on the negative? Every frick'in post on TW has someone trying to focus on negatives instead of actually posting something useful.

 

U joints are all of like 20 bucks a piece for high quality spicer units (same ones toyota uses) and a CB shouldnt be more than 100 bucks. 160ish in parts and an afternoon with a "ball joint press" on free rental from autozone.

And because you are 4x4. Worst case, you pull the whole rear shaft, flip her in 4hi and drive around a day or two in fwd mode while you work on the driveshaft.