0w20 vs 5w20

Hey there! I have a 2011 Toyota Tacoma with a 2TR-FE. It was the engine I wanted but unfortunately I regret buying it in the truck I did. 2011+ Tacoma's moved to 0w20 exclusively and I'm really not sure if it's the best for longevity. From what I understand it was a CAFE + mpg decision. It's unclear if the internal tolerances we're changed in these later engines.

What I wanted to know was if anyone uses 5w20 or anything in their 2.7s with good reliability. Thanks

 

Just use whatever oil viscosity the owners manual calls for.

 

Any lower winter rating is always better, even in Washington.

0W20 is much better at cold starts and is a synthetic which that in itself creates more longevity.

You can use 5W20 all day long if you want, there will never be an issue. The 2TR is a staple of reliability.

But I stick to 0W20 simply due to cold starts.

 

I'm sure the main reason they call for 0W-20 is fuel economy, so if that's not your primary objective, run whatever you feel comfortable with. I've been running 5W-40 in mine for the last 40k miles, year round. The 2TR is a simple, tough engine and isn't picky about viscosity.

 

Here is info direct from my 2015’s manual: An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.
I tow quite a bit so I changed over to 0W-30. After all, it’s what Toyota recommends.
There is also the fact that the same engine in other parts of the world allows for a wide range of viscosities.

 

Please learn and begin to understand the viscosity ratings of oil.

The number proceeding the "w" is the "winter" viscosity rating tested at 0*F. Yes, the lower the number the thinner the oil at that temperature.

Multi-vicosity oils have modifiers which are temperature sensitive to thicken the oil as temperature rises.

The second number is viscosity tested at 104*F and 212*F, then compared to a standard.

There are temperature vs viscosity charts that can guide you to the viscosity that best suits your location.

Frankly, this is all good information to know and understand. But in the simplistic nature of today's drivers, just use the oil viscosity recommended in the Owner's Manual or on the 710 cap.


Personally, in my location in Central Iowa, I run either 10w30 or 10w40. Mult-viscosity like 10wXX is suitable down -30*C or -34*F. I have yet to see winter temps below -34*F in this area.

OP, your best path to engine longevity is follow the maintenance interval for all aspects. Always change the oil and oil filter at the same time.

 

I prefer 0w-XX oils since they use a far superior base stock oil than any 5w, 10w etc. Having a better base stock increases sheer stability. Basically a longer lasting oil. A 0W-XX oil will keep its viscosity index (VI) longer than a 5W-XX as well. The further the split in a 5W-XX/10W-XX (like a 5W-40) will thin out pretty quickly vs a 0W-XX oil. 0W-XX oils have a better VII (Viscosity Index Improver) package than 5W-XX oils. It's common to see a 5W-30 thin down to a 20 grade oil over time where as a 0W-20 stays mostly stable over that same amount time.

Get a API SP/GF-6A rated oil as well. They are specifically designed to for newer engines that run leaner and have turbo gas direct injection (TGDI) which require more protection for LPSI (Low Speed Pre-Ignition) and additional timing chain guide wear additives. LPSI may not be a major issue on your engine, but the film strength is greatly increased for your crank and rod bearings. This also aids in low speed, high load situations. These oils are designed for start stop vehicles as well. Which is hell on engine wear knowing that more wear happens on start up than any other time since there is zero oil flow and you are relying solely on the film on the bearings until oil is flowing.

Overall the best oils you can run are any European spec oil. European oils go through far more stringent testing than any other oil. They also have better detergent packages that keep it far cleaner, specifically fighting carbon build up.

Personally I use 0W-40 Castrol Euro in my 4.0 at 5k OCI's. But the 2TR and 2GR have done hundreds of thousands of miles on whatever jiffy lube puts in. These are almost as indestructible of an engine as you can get since they are low stressed engines no matter how hard you wring them out.

If you want to uselessly nerd out about oil, look up Bob Is The Oil Guy forums. You will learn tons about automotive fluids! Those guys are absolutely insane how deep they dive into rabbit holes about any fluid.

 

Wow! Thanks everyone for all the replies. I know making oil threads is cringe af but I just had to get second opinions on these thinner oils given that before my 2nd gen I've never owned anything before 19xx lol. Lots of great info here I think for the summers in my area 5w20 may be a better choice but all other times I'm convinced 0w will be safe

 

Haven't heard that in a while. I legitimately LOL'd.

 

In fact, I use the same Castrol Euro 0W-40 in my all original non turbo 1991 MR2. I don't know what the previous owner had in it but I feel better about it and it does idle smoother. The drivers mirror vibrated more before the oil change due to slightly loose mounting bolts, I tightened the mounting bolts few weeks later. T I wish 0W-30 was available in stores in my area, but it's not a common oil.

 

The only 0W-30 I have found in my area is Mobil 1. Walmart usually has it in stock.

 

Lucky!! I've looked at our 2 Walmarts and they don't stock in my area. We don't have much for euro cars since we are about 2hrs from any euro dealer or shop besides VW and that dealer is terrible so not many people buy from them anyhow.

I really wished Schaffer's made a 0W-30 or 40. I love their oils, lots of Moly in their oils. However, due to SP and GF-6 requirements there are TONS of great oils out there. Even Supertech is actually a pretty dang good oil. It's not for me though, doesn't give me the warm and fuzzy feeling. That's what it's all about really.

 

2005 2TR-FE 4x4 5-sp manual and I am nearing 241,000 miles. I only use Mobil 1 0W30 with OEM YZZD1 oil filter. It drives like new. Temps range from 25F to 90 where I live in Oregon so it's never very hot or cold, but 0W30 has been great. I also use only synthetic 75W90 in the diffs, trans & TC and it's smooth and quiet (original clutch, too).

 

Not sure what you mean by “Toyota moved to”. This is not a 2024 vehicle.

thinner oils are used for emissions.

5w and 0w are both thin at cold start.

I run any oil. Because it works. Further than that is not necessary.
If my engine mechanically needed 0w20 I would run that. It does not.

you achieve better emissions by running a thinner oil with less friction. This is very basic.

politicians decide to overpopulate the world for more money. Then tell people who somewhat actually do work to defy the laws of physics and make magic happen. They cannot. So they put a thinner oil. This happened after my truck was made.very simple.

 

Keep in mind, the wider the 0W-????? spread in oil, the faster it breaks down to a lower ??? at the top end of the spec.

The spread is determined by additives that are considered "long chain molecules" and are subject to the pressures applied to them in the course of standard engine operation.

I, like all others, can not say that the internal specs on Toyota engines were changed to meet with the thinner oils, but one thing we do know is that Uncle Sugar is making it more and more difficult for manufactures to meet the MPG demands and they will do about anything to bring the average of the fleet into compliance.

Things like direct injection that lead to carbon build up on the intake valve and stop start engines when ever the car comes to a halt, as well as much thinner oils, may ultimately lead to shorter engine life.