08 new Callahan brake issues

Just installed a set of Callahan rotors and pads. 1st test drive i get a loud chatter from the new brakes, going forward and reverse just before i stop. I got the drilled rotors. Pretty strange and concerning. I've always had just stock rotors before. It's a pretty straight forward install and I've done many pad changes before. What is happening?
Ray

 

Check the hardware really good. Are the caliper bolts tight?

Try different rotors, preferably stock

 

Did you break in the pads
What is the spec for the brakes for breaking in the pads

 

if it's installed correctly
then probably has something to do with the brand being Callahan
a name literally nobody has ever heard of before

usually people trust name brands
things you've heard of before
Stoptech, Centric, Powerstop, Akebono, Ate, TRW-Girling, Brembo, Zimmerman, and so on

or tires
Michelin BFGoodrich Toyo Falken Continental

or shoes
Nike Adidas Reebok

I'm not sure if I would get a tire if it was called Baswashashi 123 EverySeason

seems kinda like going on Offerup finding a guy who calls himself Mickey Mouse to do dental work sitting on a milk crate in an alley for 50 bucks

 

Calipers are tight. How do you break in the pads? I have about ¼ mi on the new setup

 

that depends
Zinc coated rotors ask that you drive up to 200 gentle normal miles to clear the zinc coating off of the rotor face, before performing a bed in procedure of up to 10 hard stops from approx 60 to 10mph repeatedly to the point of almost engaging ABS (if you have it) in order to bed them. To deposit a layer of transfer material from the pad onto the rotor, to conform their surface shapes to each other, and to bake stinky production chemicals out of the pad

 

They are highly rated on several reviews I've read

 

I’ve heard of Callahan brakes, but didn’t know it was a real company…0

 

You shouldn't have to break in pads to get a "loud chatter" to go away. Something is wrong

 

I would make sure they are installed correctly
pads facing inward
no excessive runout, hub clean
oil cleaned off the rotor if it is oil-coated
any hardware installed properly, tight, in the right location, in terms of any potential shims, brackets, springs
with the right lubricants in the right spots, so things move freely and make less noise
for example it can be OK to put some lube on the pad back where the piston meets it, some on the ears if they slide on metal, some in caliper slide pins (if it has them, it may not)

plus a bed in procedure

if at that point they still have problems I would return or warranty it from the supplier who should stand by their product
given if there is no installer error that points to a defective product
even if it is just one batch of not very QC'd parts
IDK if theres a way to tell trying to wiggle things around, to see how well they fit

I wonder if they did not manufacture the correct geometry
for example where a pad and backing plate fits in, it should be sized so it is not too tight, not too loose; cleaning brake dust helps it be not too tight but doesn't always matter that much
whereas I imagine if the thing is too small that would make it fit too lose and clank around under the force of braking

I hope they even are for the right car in the first place.
I don't know the dimensions of the stock brake system (such as mm/inch disc size) off the top of my head.
But for example I wonder if their site incorrectly claimed a part to fit the Tacoma even if it does not, from a detail error on their part

 

Did see the Tommy Boy thing too.
I will do the break in procedure. Thanks for the input. Never replaced rotors before

 

If they end up not working
if you end up able to return them
I would recommend you look into the brake upgrade thread here about something along the lines of TRD Ceramic pads and Stoptech cryo slotted rotors
or whatever other high performance pads there are.
There's one used on race cars that makes one for the Taco some have used but I forget their name. I'd be curious to try them

the stock braking system in this Tacoma is embarrassingly undersized and a complete waste of time
the options are typically as follows at the minimum:
-Stoptech cryo slotted rotors. You get nice looking slots that vent gas and clean the pads. Reputable company. Cryogenically hardened (cold temperature) to make them more dense and more able to absorb heat put into the stock tiny brake size
-larger brakes, aka 5th gen 4runner. You can buy a pair for 60 bucks. Then clean it. And throw it on a bench. To pop out the pistons and slap them back in with some fresh lubricated new seals

the issue with this is really only timing
because if you get a larger caliper (4runner, which is basically the same vehicle but with a correctly sized caliper)
then you need bigger rotors
If you have worn rotors and need to replace them anyway, awesome. Perfect timing. Couple more bucks for the bigger ones.

But if you just spent $300 to renew your wimpy OEM brakes with stoptech and TRD,
You'd essentially be throwing all that away if you tried 4runner parts the next day
Sure you can try to sell them,
but let's face it
we never get as much as we think we should for our used parts for sale

there are some things I am not sure about that upgrade:
-why there is a VIN split offering 2 versions of 4runner caliper in the 5th gen year range and what that means (I honestly don't know)
-if you need a bigger brake master cylinder from a Tundra (you probably do)

there is no reason the Tacoma, a heavy truck with big tires that can tow,
has smaller brakes than older smaller lighter passenger cars

Putting money into the stock parts, is like giving another million dollars to a financial advisor who just lost you your previous million dollars

There is also the OEM TRD upgrade, which is basically spending $2k for a brake setup that is about exactly the same, but painted red
4runner calipers are probably a heavy iron (cars use aluminum) but I don't think Toyota cared about unsprung weight
-the wheels? not that heavy
-the tires? Some are, some aren't
-the suspension, is heavy because it has to be strong
-heavy calipers? Really not sure why they're iron and if that's meant to absorb heat - in a truck with small brakes that have a heat limit, without cooling ducts, using piston seals that probably fail before the metal - it was probably just to be cheap

 

You have to bed the rotors. Then the chattering will be gone.

 

The pads should have shims that sorta clip on to the back side. Then there should be clip in pieces that attach to the calipers that go between the caliper and pad. Those pieces should provide sorta a springing action so they aren’t gonna wobble around in the calipers. It may or may not have 2 V shaped springs that goes from one pad to the other creating a diamond shape. If all hardware is correctly installed, it shouldn’t chatter unless the pad material is prone to chattering, like metallic or semi metallic is.

 

Ray, do this. I have the same issues when I installed my new slotted front brake rotors.

 

You did this step? If no, oops. Brake material absorbs oil, consider your new pads ruined.

 

Same here.

bedding takes 20 minutes. Tops.

 

Yep, try bedding them and see if that makes it better. I put slotted rotors on my wife's minivan a few years back and they hummed a little more than I anticipated until they got a little worn. Believe me, the way she drives, she needs them.
I have them on my truck and they are quiet. I always bed new brakes.

Bed them and report back.

 

Thank you for the many responses. I have about 2mi on them. Removed LH and checked. Metal dust on the spindle, probably to be expected. A screen shot of product and the light scratching on pads n rotors. Does make a pretty loud chattering just before complete stop, F n R. 4WD btw. Makes me nervous but all was/ is tight upon reopening the can of worms. The pad pic. That is LH and that clip is on inside and on the bottom. Should it be on top inside?
Ray