040 paint repair

I have an '03 Tacoma in the 040 (Super White) color with a section of peeling paint (not uncommon, I guess) that I want to repair. The kits I am seeing from Duplicolor, etc., are all two-stage, but the original paint is single-stage from what I have learned. I am worried that if I use a two-stage, it will be harder to blend. Has anyone here done this repair, and are there any suggestions?

 

IMHO, to do that 'right' would require stripping that whole panel and repainting. Because what's left on there will be subject to peeling as well.

If you're ok with a 10' patch job (meaning it looks ok from 10') give it a go. You won't really make anything any worse if you then decide to do the whole panel.

Hope it works out for you!

 

I have done this repair on other cars in the past, and it ended up coming out great (well, good) with enough attention to detail, proper cleaning, sanding, etc. However, that was when I was able to blend the clear coat. Painting the whole panel takes a little more skill and equipment.

I figure if it starts peeling again, well, if it came out good the first time, just repeat the process. If it does not come out great, as you said, have the whole panel painted, which, as of now, is out of budget (body shops have become ridiculously expensive for this kind of thing).

 

Keep us posted. I am in a similar situation.

 

Try taking an air nozzle and see how far you can peel the paint off. If you’re lucky the entire panel will come off to primer and then you can scuff the primer and spray a light shot of primer and top coat with color. I wouldn’t try to blend back into a base that is going to peel off.

 

My main concern is if I need to find a single.stage paint or if I can just do a clear coat...

 

Go to an auto body shop and get the right paint. But know that auto paint is expensive. That assumes you have an air compressor and you'll need a paint gun...

I'm painting a small section of my land rover and did it all diy. Tried coded single stage and all samples were a bad match. Actually almost all the coded samples were bad match. There may be multiple variations for your color -- ask a body shop. I Ended up with a base clear but not for blending -- painting whole panel. I bought a cheap gun from Eastwood. White is hard to exact match, I understand. Good luck!

 

I’ll say that I tried to do a patch job (different color) due to peeling clear coat and this is exactly what happened. The older clear coat ended up peeling as well, so now I’m just gonna take it to a shop to do the whole panel.

 

It's an old truck. Unless you're trying to get show car quality just get a cab of rustoleum white. I sanded down several rust spots and primed and painted with rustoleum and it matched pretty well. My truck is white too. It will be a little more glossy but who really cares.

 

If a 2002 it’s a 2 stage
1st S is paint
2nd S is clr coat

totally doable bc the issue is in the center of panel
You would need to “feather or blend” the new paint 6-8inches further than the issue spot
Like this

 

As guavaroad said
I would highly recommend clear coat over entire panel

Cencal…..you mentioned prep
And I agree
Prep is 80% of painting

 

I did a similarish type of patch job on a smaller section of peeling paint on my 03. I chose to just use the 040 duplicolor spray can. From what I gathered at the time, using the single stage was best. Something about color changing when you do clear on top of what was a single stage. The new paint was a bit brighter and I did not do enough prep, but it has prevented further peeling for now. I am not a paint/body guy though, so this is just what I did.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...r3Xn73UzSL9Hbk2umo4aArHQEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The section i resprayed was above the TRD logo at the bed rail basically. It is more noticeable in other light conditions.

 

What you did looks reasonable in the picture. Is the product you linked to single stage? If so I will grab a can or two and give it a shot. Can't be much worse than it is now...

 

It is a single stage. I did some sanding beyond the area that was flacking off, then did my best to blend. I then wet sanded beyond where I painted then buffed. When your up close on mine you can see the difference in thickness. I should have used more primer and/or glazing putty.

 

So I thought I would post back now that I attempted the job. I am posting some pictures for anyone interested in replicating what I did.


1) This is what I started with -- I did not want to have the full panel professionally painted, because I could afford a new set of 5100's for the price, plus the rest of the truck has original paint and it would look bad if this panel was the only one with fresh paint.




2) So I chipped away all of the loose paint around the effected area and then feathered the paint to the underlying surfaces. I actually expanded the work area from this per the advice of @ControlCar...



3) I then used a filler primer (exact match). The can said it could be used on bare metal, so i just went with it, given most of the old primer was still there. This was further sanded with 800 grit wet.



4) Then I laid down several coats of exact match 040. This is the second coat I as you can still see a shadow of the primer...




5) Then I sanded with progressively finer sand paper starting with 1000 grit going down to 2500....



6) After buffing, you really cant tell that the repair was made. The color matches well enough after blending, the level of shine, while not great on 20 year old paint is a pretty close match after buffing.



So it looks great now, and I will let you all know how it holds up; but it was easy enough that I would repeat the process if I run into problems in the future. Bonus, now that I have a buffer I will buff the whole truck and use a ceramic coating which should make things hold up better.

Thanks all for your advice.

 

These are the products I used if anyone wants to try this:

$15 Dupli-Color BTY1556 Super White II Toyota Exact-Match Automotive Paint - 8 oz. Aerosol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00407RT6W?ie=UTF8&th=1

$12 Dupli-Color FP101 Scratch Filler Primer, Gray – 11 oz. Aerosol Can

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B6DG7C?ie=UTF8&th=1

$11 Meguiar's Ultimate Compound - Pro-Grade Car Scratch Remover, Paint Correction Compound That Removes Defects While Adding Gloss and Shine, Single Stage and Clear Coat Scratch Remove, 15.2 Oz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNNM?ie=UTF8

 

Awesome work! i thought the only way to fix this was to get a flat bed.

 

Nice job. Looks great!

 

Thanks, and thank you for your advice earlier...

 

really good work!!!!!!!!!!!
intensely better than a $1200-$1500 bill to pay at a shop
kudos!!!

that textured flare.....
there is a product that takes all that overspray off/cleans
bodyshops use all the time
im sorry i dont know the brand/product
but
this product is same consistantcy as water and is pink(like soft soap)

if i drop by the shop i know, i will surely ask and report back