5VZFE Turbo

Looks like my trigger issues have been solved. Redline no problem.

 

Nice!

Do you have a manual or Automatic Transmission?

 

Manual

 

Do you think the splices could have been the issue the whole time and you didn’t need to replace the crank sensor?

 

I suspect there is that possibility.

 

Hard to say. Maybe a combination of everything. I will say that it seemed ok with ESP after changing just the sensor, but still had issues with NSP

 

Does anyone have a part number for a OEM 170° thermostat? Edit: found one

 

This is the one I use the Corolla 170

 

Here's a couple of links:

$41 Toyota Genuine Parts - Thermostat (90916-03107)

https://www.amazon.com/TOYOTA-90916-03107-Genuine-Toyota-Thermostat/dp/B00KTKWGIK

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293494363189

 

Its hotter than hell here on the East Coast, so I haven’t been doing much in the way of tuning. I had to replace my valve cover gaskets yesterday due to the tube seals leaking. I advanced the injector firing angles today by 5% and the off-idle response is much better. Idle is hunting a bit so I may have to tune that some more. Question: does anyone have any tips for A/C idle up? I have the A/C enabled but I may not have it wired correctly. Toyota is very vague on what the A/C amplifier actually is telling the stock ecu

 

Not 100% sure what you're looking at when you say "A/C idle up" but stock increases by about 400-500 RPM by opening the IAC valve more and fuel follows via MAF when the AC clutch engages

Also I believe technically you have it backwards, as the ECU tells the amplifier when to engage the clutch. (Note this is from a 4runner so might be little different):

 

My understanding is this:
AC1 is a request signal sent from the amplifier to the ECU whenever the amplifier wants to cycle the compressor ON, i.e. A/C button is pressed, defroster turned on, etc.
ACT is a “go” signal from the ECU to the amplifier, in addition the ECU raises the idle to compensate for the additional load from the compressor. The ECU will not send the go signal if the engine is not running or at wide open throttle.
So I must have it wired to the standalone correctly or it would not work at all. Only thing is, the idle does not raise to compensate and the engine idles very low or stalls.

 

Well ya I would assume since you have a standalone you would need a trigger programmed to open the IAC more.
All the "amplifier" in the circuit above is doing is most likely just a digital input into a transistor that pulls up or down MGC, so you probably have that part taken care of as long as you have control of the clutch relay.

As for how you program said trigger, someone else will have to weigh in.

 

There is no doubt that the base tune leaves a lot to be desired.

 

Gabe Salazar is finishing up turning Skyler turbo 3.4,
Stock motor with ARP studs just pushed
413 and 489 torque at 17 pounds of boost with the haltech on the dyno, very impressive

 

And the engine is now blown up

 

Really?

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ChP-LhPJvAj/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

Definitely blew it up

 

Oh the humanity!